DAHLIA CULTURE 
SOIL—Dahlias will grow in any soil provided there 
are sufficient plant foods in the soil to supply the needs 
for proper growth. Many soils can be improved to 
erow better dahlias. A heavy soil or clay soil may be 
improved by the addition of sand and the use of 
quantities of rotted manure and peat. 
FERTILIZER—Before adding plant foods, have your 
soil tested to determine deficiencies. Generally, 5 to 
10 pounds per 100 square feet of a fertilizer analyz- 
ing 4-12-4, or thereabouts, will meet most require- 
ments, if the soil has already had organic material 
added to it. After the first of August, when the plants 
are beginning to show flower buds, ‘‘feeding’’ with 
small amounts of nitrogenous fertilizers, once or twice, 
will favor the development of larger flowers and more 
vigorous plants. 
DIVISIONS—Never plant a ‘‘clump” of roots. Divide 
the clump carefully into a number of parts so that 
each division will have one sound, healthy tuber, and 
one or two plump buds. 
PLANTING—For exhibition flowers, dahlias should be 
planted at least 3 feet apart each way. Dwarf varities 
for bedding and varities used for landscape effect may 
be planted closer. Dwarf singles, as Coltness Gem, 
should be planted 12 to 14 inches apart for best bed- 
ding effects. Dig the holes at least 6 inches deep. 
Place the tuber horizontally in the bottom of the hole 
with the bud an inch or so from the stake. Cover the 
roots with about 2 to 3 inches of soil. As the plants 
grow the hole may be filled in by cultivating. 
STAKING—Five to six foot stakes will be required 
to support tall growing varities. The stakes should be 
set in at the time of planting. If you wait until later 
to drive in the stakes, much damage may be done to 
the roots of the plants. 
PRUNING—Large flowered types and bedding types 
should have the tips of the plants cut out when they 
have reached a height of 8 to 12 inches. Cactus 
varities are often permitted to grow until the first 
buds appear. These are then pinched out to encourage 
the growth of the laterals. For exhibition flowers, 
allow only 8 or 4 branches to develop. Remove side 
buds and all laterals, except those at the bottom, from 
each of the branches. 
WATERING—If “green plants’ are planted, water 
carefully for the first 2 weeks. Through July never 
allow the soil to dry out sufficiently to cause a check- 
ing of the growth. After the first of August and until 
early or mid-September, dahlias will require plenty of 
water. If the soil is well drained, there is not much 
danger of overwatering. Throughout the summer on 
dry hot days, the plants wll be much benefited by a 
thorough syringing in the later afternoon. 
DIGGING—After the first heavy frost, the tops of the 
plants will blacken and dry. A few days to a week 
after a frost the tops should be cut off and the clumps 
dug up. They should be carefully dried off in the 
sun for several hours before being stored. 
STORAGE-—Store the tubers in dry granulated peat 
in a cool place. The best storage temperature is 
about 45 degrees Fahrenheit. The storage atmosphere 
should be moist enough to prevent excess drying of the 
roots and at the same time not so moist as to encour- 
age mold or storage rots. 
In the fall when your dahlias are blooming, enter 
some blooms in the Dahlia Shows near you. You will 
have lots of pleasure and will learn much about dahlias 
at the exhibitions. 
