
— without a peer 
Tulips for spring glory 
Since the supply of tulips has been vastly curtailed in our country due to existing 
war conditions, gardeners and plantsmen are realizing the tremendous loss our spring 
gardens are experiencing. 
In 1940 the horticultural trade of this country was entirely unprepared to supply the 
smallest fraction of the demand for tulips. Our firm has watched the developments in 
this situation closely and feel it our duty to protect our clientele. 
For this reason this year we are only offering a few varieties which we feel are 
thoroughly satisfactory and of the desired quality. 
Location: Tulips planted in full sun give the best results. However, in our section 
where warm spring weather is customary, they will prove satisfactory in partial shade. 
Culture: Plant as early in fall as possible to enable good root development. Spade 
soil deeply and add sufficient humus material such as Nutrio, to insure adequate drain- 
age and a well enriched soil. Either of two methods of planting may be followed: 
Method 1 (For small quantities): Place bulb in desired location. Dig hole with 
trowel, place bulb in hole with bottom on soil and not in an air pocket at bottom of 
hole. In heavy soils place cushion of sand or Nutrio in bottom of hole under each bulb 
to insure freedom from decay. 
Method 2 (Advisable for large beds): Remove surface soil to proper depth, set bulbs 
and replace soil after enriching with Nutrio, around and on top of bulbs. 
Be cautious that each bulb is planted at same depth so there will be uniformity in 
blooming and in height. In either method plant at a depth of 4 to 5 inches and 4 to 6 
inches apart. 
Use: Tulips like all bulbs look better in groupings or masses than individually or in 
narrow rows. For truly beautiful effects plant in perennial flower border, in front of 
any shrub border (particularly in front of the home), in individual beds, around pools 
or in rockeries. More pleasing effects are created in tulip plantings if colors har- 
monize, and if spring annuals are planted in association. 
CLASSES OF TULIPS: Following are the principal classes or family types of tulips: 
Darwin Tulips. The most popular and widely planted class. Varieties in this group 
usually are of solid colors and have cup-shaped flowers wtih fleshy petals on long 
strong stems. 
Breeder Tulips. Varieties in this class resemble Darwin tulips in shape, growth, and 
time of bloom. They differ in color characteristics which are mostly blends of colors 
of the art shades, such as buff and maroon, purple and old gold, etc., rather than entire 
self colors. 
Cottage Tulips. These varieties are distinguished by their long oval flowers, with 
pointed and reflexed petals. Stems are longer and more graceful than varieties of the 
above classes, and the colors of delicate shades of yellow, orange, etc. 
CENTENAIRE (Darwin). Violet rose. 
CLARA BUTT (Darwin). Soft clear salmon-pink. 
FARNCOMBE SANDERS (Darwin). Rich and vivid rosy scarlet, with white base. 
INGLESCOMBE YELLOW (Cottage). Large globular flowers of glistening canary yellow. 
MRS. MOON (Cottage). Graceful long lily-like flowers of intense golden yellow. 
PRIDE OF HAARLEM (Darwin). Brilliant deep rosy-carmine. 
PRINCESS ELIZABETH (Darwin). Large flowers of perfect form of a rich lilac-rose, 
passing to a deeper tone as they develop. 
Any of the above, 10c each, $1.00 per dozen. 

Lagomarsino’s Superfine Tulip Mixture 
Due to scarcity of tulips, we have concentrated on offering to gardeners a really 
superb mixture to take the place of many of the cherished varieties which are now 
unprocurable. Only the best varieties and colors are in this mixture, all separate 
named varieties. Many of these were available in too small a quantity to offer 
separately, and we have used them in making an outstanding mixture for the spring 
gardens of all our clientele. We unreservedly offer this superfine mixture. 
8c each, 90c per dozen, postpaid. 

Cultural Directions for Sweet Peas 
Select a location which receives abundant morning sun, and is somewhat protected 
from warm afternoon sun. This prolongs the flowering season, and induces longer 
stem formation. The sweet pea is a deep rooted plant, and does best in a deep firm 
soil. The ground should be thoroughly spaded or trenched to a depth of 2 feet. Apply 
1 inch or more of humus material, such as our specially prepared NUTRIO, to the 
spaded surface, and work into soil. Dust seed before planting with Cuprocide or 
Hormodin to prevent rotting of seed, and hasten germination. 
Sow seed 1 to 112 inches deep; two to four seeds to the inch are sufficient. For long 
rows use this rule: 1 ounce of sweet pea seed will sow 30 feet of row. After plants are 
up thin out to one plant every 6-9 inches. Do not allow to grow too thick. When plants 
are about 3 inches high pinch out centers. This encourages a hardy vigorous growth. 
Give support to plants at once, otherwise growth is checked. Wire netting, strong 
string tied to supports in some manner, boughs of trees with plenty of twigs, etc., are 
all efficient means of support. 
Keep soil well cultivated at all times. Apply a complete balanced fertilizer, such as 
BEARMOR, several times during growing season. Water thoroughly at weekly, or 
semi-weekly intervals. After seeds are sown water sparsely to prevent rotting of 
seeds. Once the peas are up keep soil constantly moist. 
For exhibition blooms, apply liquid fertilizer weekly when buds begin to form. This 
is prepared by soaking a sack of cow manure in a barrel of water, stirring each day, 
and drawing off liquid at the end of a week. Refill barrel with water and proceed, 
likewise, for subsequent feedings. 
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