CARNATIONS—Continued 
FERTILIZER 
There is one question which we cannot answer. 
There is no “best’’ fertilizer. Soil and climatic con- 
ditions vary so greatly that it would be impossible 
to intelligently advise what fertilizer to use without 
a complete analysis of the soil and some knowledge 
of climatic conditions. Therefore, we advise that if 
doubt exists, a grower send a sample of his soil to 
the nearest state college or experiment station and 
receive advice from these sources. We like to build 
up our soil in the field through the use of cover crops, 
cow manure and commercial fertilizer so that it is 
adequately supplied with the major nutrients prior 
to benching. If soil is built up in this fashion, no 
further fertilizer will be required for several months. 
From then on, only a soil analysis and a knowledge 
of your conditions can determine what you should 
do. 
INSIDE VS. OUTSIDE PLANTING 
We have heard a lot recently about the advisability 
of carrying carnations inside rather than planting 
them in the field. It has been our experience that as 
long as the field plants can be kept free of diseases 
and as long as the season is not excessively wet, 
field plants are superior to inside grown plants in 
almost every instance. Inside grown plants will 
flower earlier and with longer stems, but they do not 
have the strong, vigorous growth of field plants, and 
the later plants will soon catch up and will invari- 
ably yield the heaviest crop throughout the season. 
Great care must be exercised with plants grown in- 
side in order that they do not become crowded, 
starved, pot bound or checked in any way. 
RED SPIDERS 
Of course control in the field must be by means of 
spray or dust. We prefer to spray as little as pos- 
sible, for there are very few sprays which will not 
injure the plants if used frequently. In any event, 
we try to avoid the oily sprays which remove the 
bloom from the carnation foliage. Rotenone sprays 
are the best and safest. Results depend very largely 
upon the thoroughness of application, for these 
sprays kill by contact. By far the best method of con- 
trol inside is by the use of liquid fumigants having 
a naphthalene base. Growers have had varying suc- 
cess with the use of dusts. Dusts must be used care- 
fully, and cannot be used safely after the plants 
commence to flower. On bright, warm days, plants 
may be syringed with a fine spray of water under 
pressure. This also checks the transpiration of moist- 
ure from the foliage. This practice cannot be followed 
wherever fungus diseases are present. 
RUST 
Sulphur is the most effective preventative or cure 
for rust. Use a very fine dusting sulphur and apply 
it with a blower. Use it on the young plants as soon 
as the first sign of rust appears. It is best applied on 
a bright, warm day, and may safely be used once a 
week or oftener. In light soils the sulphur may cause 
an acid reaction, but this is easily overcome. It is 
not advisable to use sulphur on plants in the pro- 
pagating bench, nor on plants being grown in gravel 
or cinders. In fact you should consult your experi- 
ment station before using any spray or dust on 
plants in cinders or gravel. 
SPOT OR BLIGHT 
Spot or blight caused by the fungus Alternaria 
dianthi may be largely prevented by spraying field 
plants regularly with Bordeaux Mixture. This is not 
a positive preventative, but it is generally effective. 
After benching, this fungus causes branch rot, es- 
pecially among several varieties which are particu- 
larly susceptible. Alternaria is not carried in the 
blood stream of the plant, and any variety that is 
susceptible may be attacked. 
STEM ROT 
This is caused by a mold, Rhizoctonia, which in- 
habits practically all soil and which attacks almost 
any plant. Stem rot IS NOT CARRIED WITH CUT- 
TINGS. Ordinarily the mold is an innocent soil fun- 
gus, but under favorable conditions it becomes a 
serious disease. It thrives under excessively ‘moist 
and warm soil conditions. Control is a matter of cor- 
rect watering, airing, sanitation, shallow planting, 
soil rotation and soil sterilization. Acidity, alkalinity 
or fertility of the soil within the limits of good plant 
growth are of no value in the control of the disease. 
Spraying is useless. Steam sterilization is recom- 
mended, although sterilized soil may easily become 
re-infected if plants are brought in from the field. 
FUSARIUM BRANCH ROT 
This begins with the yellowing and wilting of a 
single branch. Eventually the affected branch dies. 
If the branch is removed before the disease has pro- 
gressed down into the stem, the plant may be saved. 
The fungus enters the conductive tissue under the 
bark, travels down into the stem, and eventually kills 
the entire plant. The fungus enters through injuries 
caused by careless handling, too rapid growth, top- 
ping, picking, etc. It may be carried in the cuttings. 
Soil sterilization is of no value, and there is no spray 
which will prevent or cure it. Injuries should be pre- 
vented. The same warm, moist conditions which are 
favorable to other fungus diseases will also encour- 
age the growth of Fusarium rot. 
APHIDS AND THRIPS 
These are comparatively minor problems, and are 
easily cleaned up, although thrips will continue to 
blow in from outside as long as ventilators are open. 
Nicotine in one form or another is the best cure. We 
prefer nicotine fumigation. 
SPLITTING AND BRITTLENESS OF STEM 
We would like to be able to list a cure for these 
two conditions, but not enough is known definitely 
about the causes for us to offer advice. Many 
growers ask us about these conditions, and we take 
this opportunity to admit that research in this field 
is still in the experimental stage as far as we know. 
