If the soil is slightly alkaline or slightly acid 
it will be satisfactory for the growth of most 
plants. If medium to strongly acid the majority 
of plants will respond to the addition of sufficient 
Limestone or Hydrated Lime which will bring 
the soil up to a slightly acid or neutral condition. 
This is not true in case weed competition is a 
factor as it is in the lawn. Lime should not be 
used on the lawn or on acid-loving plants. 
Alkaline conditions seldom exist in humid 
soils. Alkalinity is due to the presence of an 
excess of soluble salts in the soil and generally 
occurs under arid conditions. In humid regions 
Alkaline soils may be produced through the 
addition of too much hydrated or quick lime and 
it may at times be desirable to reduce the degree 
VERYONE desires a thick, velvety lawn and 
k while many do not succeed in getting just 
this, it is not a difficult task if thoroughness 
is the keynote in early preparation. In planning 
and making a lawn keep in mind that it is a long 
time proposition and that a good foundation (in- 
cluding drainage, soil texture and food supply) 
is essential in providing an adequate foundation 
for grass plants. Many times this calls for arti- 
ficial drainage, thorough preparation of the soil 
and ample supply of organic matter, grading 
which is artistically effective as well as prac- 
tical from the point of view of upkeep and the 
use of a good seed mixture and plenty of it. 
SOIL PREPARATION 
When the soil is already good and drainage 
conditions are satisfactory, preparation need not 
be deeper than six inches. If the soil is heavy 
and inclined to stay wet, it may be necessary to 
lay 4-inch drain tile or cinder and sand base 
about 18 to 24 inches below the finished surface. 
Heavy soils may be lightened by incorporating 
sand or some form of humus such as peat moss 
(a bale to 600 square feet worked into the upper 
4 inches of soil). On the other hand, a light 
sandy soil is also improved and given more body 
by the addition of humus at the same rate. 
Natural manures are not desirable in making 
a new lawn because they are likely to contain 
many weed seeds which may continue to ger- 
minate over several years. A ‘‘balanced"’ com- 
mercial fertilizer, such as 4-12-4 formula (that 
means, containing 4% Nitrogen, 12% Phos- 
phates, 49% Potash) worked into the upper two 
or three inches of soil at the rate of 4 pounds to 
100 square feet will supply available nourish- 
ment for the new grass as well as a supply of 
food later on. 
We HU GELER LAW 
[3 ] 
of this alkalinity. Aluminum Sulphate is the 
most efficient material for making a soil more 
acid. Broadcast this material evenly over the 
area at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet 
and soak it well into the soil. It may be neces- 
sary to make several applications to obtain the 
degree of acidity desired. Care should be taken 
not to make the soil too acid. Acid compost 
material such as that made from oak leaves may 
be used if available. Such material acidifies 
soil very slowly. 
The final and most important requisite of a 
good soil is the proper amount of well balanced 
plant food. This is best done by the use of a 
good complete commercial fertilizer to be ap- 
plied at the approximate rate of 4 pounds per 
100 square feet. 

SEED MIXTURES 
The selection of seed is vitally important, as 
good preparation will be of little benefit unless 
a proper mixture is selected for your particular 
locality. It is far better economy to spend a few 
extra pennies on a high quality seed and have 
a satisfactory lawn for many years than to sacri- 
fice quality for temporary savings offered by in- 
ferior mixtures containing “‘filler seed’’. It is 
recommended to use a complete mixture as the 
various types of grasses blended in such a mix- 
ture are incorporated for specific purposes. A 
mixture containing two or more ‘‘base grasses"’ 
and one “nurse grass’’ is most ideal for North- 
west soil and climatic conditions. We are listing 
below the three main groups in lawn seed. Your 
mixture should contain grasses from group one 
and two. 
Group 1—Base Grasses—Those which will 
live for many years and will of themselves occupy 
the whole area on the existing type of soil if 
properly maintained. This class is almost in- 
variably slow to mature. This group includes 
Kentucky Blue Grass, Chewing's Fescue, Creep- 
ing Bent. 
Group 2—Nurse Grasses—lIts life is short but 
it plays an important part in grass seed mixtures 
in that it grows fast and occupies the soil until 
the slower and more permanent varieties are far 
enough along to cover the ground. By its nature 
nurse grass seldom lives over three years and 
should not compose over 30% of the entire mix- 
ture. In this group we list Red Top. 
