Group 3—Filler Grasses—Are varieties not 
adapted to lawn and turf purposes but used to 
increase bulk in a mixture or lessen the price 
per pound. These grasses should not be used if 
a top quality lawn is desired. This group in- 
cludes Rye Grasses, Crested Dogs Tail, Timothy 
and Mesquite. 
Here in the Northwest lawns can be planted 
almost any time of year (except November, De- 
cember, January and February) if the soil and 
seed are kept moist throughout the early grow- 
ing stages. Because of the importance of keep- 
ing the soil moist during this period of growing 
it is most desirable to sow the seed either in early 
spring or early fall. Whatever the season, loosen 
the soil with a steel rake to a depth of one inch 
just before sowing, then divide the seed into 
equal parts, half to be sown as the sower walks 
back and forth in one direction (north and south) 
and the rest as he walks back and forth at right 
angles over the same area. A calm day permits 
more even distribution and a cloudy one assures 
more moisture in the soil. 
As soon as the seed is sown the surface can be 
raked lightly with a fine tooth rake or covered 
with not more than 14 inch of top dressing. In 
either case the ground should be rolled (not too 
heavily) to firm the earth around the seed and 
promote quick germination. 
WATERING 
Watering should be done first gently and with 
a fine sprinkler to prevent washing. It should 
be done often enough and generously enough 
to keep the soil and seed from drying out. 
After the grass is well started the watering 
should be more thorough and less frequent. 
Deep watering encourages the development 
of deep roots upon which the future success 
of the lawn largely depends. Shallow water- 
ing or sprinkling tends to bring the roots near 
the surface where they are quickly affected by 
severe heat. 
MOWING 
In mowing a new lawn set the blades to cut 
not less than 2 to 3 inches above the ground. 
As the turf becomes thick it can be mowed 
closer although the longer the grass can be left, 
consistent with good appearance, the better for 
the grass. Shortly clipped lawns dry out fast 
during hot summer months and when this con- 
ditions once starts it is very hard to check. 
It is best to catch and remove all grass clip- 
pings each time the lawn is mowed. If this is not 
done they will form a soggy mat at the soil 
surface robbing the soil of Nitrogen (needed to 
decompose vegetation) and cause a sour condi- 
tion not beneficial to growing plants. 
ESTABLISHED LAWN 
To propserly care for an established lawn a 
few simple rules should be followed each grow- 
ing season. Early in the spring the turf should 
be well raked with a steel or moss rake remov- 
ing all leaves and other material accumulated 
during the winter. An application of a complete 
[4] 
plant food (4-12-4 formula) at the rate of four 
pounds to every one hundred square feet should 
be applied early in the spring to afford the lawn 
plenty of food right from the start. As dry 
weather comes on watering should be con- 
sistent and deep. The second application of 
fertilizer should be made about the first of July 
at the rate of two pounds per hundred square 
feet. This should be repeated again near the 
end of August. After the first rains in the fall a 
top dressing of one-third peat moss, one-third 
sand and one-third raw bone meal should be 
applied over the entire area at a thickness of 
one-fourth to one-half inch. If these steps are 
followed each year you will have a lawn that 
will be the envy of every home owner. 
LAWN WEEDS 
Weeds are without doubt the greatest enemy 
of all cultivated vegetation, be it lawn, vege- 
table, flower garden or field crop. Invariably 
they thrive anywhere, particularly on soils so 
sterile that the crop intended for that area can 
not thrive. 
Unfortunately, many weed seeds have the 
ability to retain their viability for many years, 
even when buried deeply in the soil. When 
supposably ‘‘weed free’’ ground is turned over 
and worked for planting, weeds will start grow- 
ing. Weed seed that has been dormant deep in 
the ground for many years will start to grow 
when worked up to soil surface. Nature has 
provided hundreds of ways of distributing these 
seeds. Some are carried through the air by the 
wind; others by run-off water after a heavy rain. 
Still others become mucilaginous and adhere to 
vehicles, the feet and fur of animals and the 
clothes of people. 
ERADICATING WEEDS 
Many methods of eradication, practical and 
theoretical, have been offered to the home gar- 
dener. Many good ways and many not so good. 
The facts we set down here are based upon our 
own knowledge and experiences. No doubt 
there are other methods equally as good but 
space does not allow detailed report. 
Contrary to many beliefs, Sulphate of Am- 
monia is not a very successful way to kill weeds 
as it is a highly concentrated nitrogen fertilizer 
and in many cases will actually increase the 
growth of weeds. A good complete fertilizer is 
good assurance against weeds as a thick healthy 
turf will crowd out many. 
There is now available a new ‘“'selective weed 
killer’ that will kill weeds but not turf grasses. 
It is sold under the brand name of MEO-181 and — 
if used according to directions will effectively 
control all lawn weeds. It is applied by spray- 
ing. 
Where the area is badly infested, first thor- 
oughly weed by hand. By thoroughly we do not 
mean merely to get every weed, but to get them 
out by the roots so that they will not reappear 
again within a few days. Bare spots produced ~ 
by the removal of spreading types should be 
promptly reseeded in order to keep out other 
weeds. 
ot» 
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