Pruning Shrubbery 
one house looks so much better than it does 
around another, a careful examination will 
usually reveal that the difference lies in the 
pruning. Lack of pruning, or improper pruning, 
will sometimes cause the most carefully planted 
landscape to appear overgrown in places, 
straggly in others, and with dead wood and 
bare places appearing in others. 
If you want to do your pruning, study care- 
fully the ultimate effect desired and the natural 
habits of your shrubs, and read up on the proper 
methods of pruning. Bear in mind that if a shrub 
has been properly planted, a most important 
step to success lies in using proper pruning 
methods in succeeding years. How a shrub or 
evergreen is pruned depends upon the nature 
of the shrub, its natural habits of growth, its 
blooming period and habit of blooming, its loca- 
tion in the landscape and its age. 
If you are not sure of your ground, better 
employ, for the first year or two anyway, a man 
from a reliable local landscape gardening firm 
or nursery which has a maintenance depart- 
ment. 
WHY ONE PRUNES 
|: you want to know why the shrubbery around 
Pruning of growing shrubbery is done for a 
number of reasons. A shrub is pruned while it 
is young and before it reaches its natural full 
size and in order to cause it to develop into a 
well rounded, thick branched type. It is pruned 
to remove old wood and to give new wood a 
chance to grow up from the base. It is pruned 
to remove any undesirable habits of growth such 
as long, straggly stems. It is sometimes pruned 
to make it develop to some specific shape as in 
the case of hedges. Again, it may be pruned as 
a measure in control of disease or insect pests. 
Thus the purpose in pruning must determine 
the way in which a shrub is pruned. Sometimes, 
one prunes in order to get the maximum bloom. 
Again, the desired end is colorful foliage. With 
some shrubs, as certain dogwoods, one prunes 
to induge growth of twigs which are colorful in 
winter. 
PRUNE AT PLANTING 
Any deciduous shrub, tree or other type of 
woody plant material not purchased balled and 
burlapped, needs a root pruning before plant- 
ing. This consists mainly in cutting back strag- 
gling roots and taking out any pieces of broken 
roots. Don’t be afraid to prune roots. It will 
mean that the roots cut back will branch out, 
form many more smaller feeding roots and the 
plants will flourish all the better. A sharp knife 
is best for this root pruning. 
Immediately after a deciduous shrub is 
planted, the tops should be pruned back at least 
one-third and, with most varieties, cut back half 
way to the ground for best results. This will 
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equalize the pruned root system of the plant, 
prevent excessive evaporation and enable the 
plant to take root more readily in its new loca- 
tion. It will also cause the shrub to put forth 
more branches and develop into a more shapely 
bush. 
Certain shrubs will often die back part way 
after planting because of the wood drying out. 
These should be pruned to within 6 inches of 
the ground after planting. This applies to 
Tamarix, Rose of Sharon, Weigela, Buddleia, 
Callicarpa, bush roses and also Calycanthus. 
Broadleaf evergreens, usually bought with 
roots balled and burlapped, do not need much, 
if any, cutting back on planting. This applies 
especially to boxwood, holly, daphne and rho- 
dodendrons. Types such as the cotoneasters, 
firethorns and barberries can be cut back per- 
haps a third if they appear ‘straggling’. The 
narrow leaf or needle evergreens seldom need 
any pruning at planting. 
PRINCIPLES OF PRUNING 
First—either do your own pruning after careful 
study or, we repeat, employ a competent local 
landscape firm or nursery that has a landscape 
maintenance department. Never turn over the 
work to an unknown or ignorant man of the type 
known as ‘“‘tree butcher’’, of which there are 
plenty who make the rounds calling at your door 
for work. 
Second—never give your shrubbery a “‘boy- 
ish bob" type of pruning, that is, cutting every- 
thing back severely to a given distance from the 
ground regardless of every other factor. This is 
what the unskilled workman is likely to do. 
Third—prune at the proper time of year. This 
is usually just after the normal blooming period 
of any individual shrub. Shrubs that bloom in 
mid-summer or late in the season should be 
pruned in winter or early spring before growth 
starts. Shrubs that bloom in early spring on new 
wood grown the previous season should be 
pruned just after blooming. 
Fourth—when pruning, keep in mind the 
nature of the plant, its habits of growth, its needs 
and your purpose in pruning. Some shrubs 
grow to considerable height, others are dwarf. 
Some have the form of a miniature tree, others 
grow from the ground in canes. Some need to 
be cut back severely every year, others need 
only the most conservative pruning. 
Fifth—be sure to use correct tools. For most 
pruning, a good pair of pruning shears will 
suffice. Heavy branches can be cut off with a 
pair of lopping shears or a pruning saw. Do not 
use an axe or hatchet to prune. Branches should 
never be broken off, for diseases are likely to 
enter the jagged end. Cut back each branch or © 
twig to the next larger one, so that no useless 
stub is left. . 
