in three or four weeks, but no more than two applications should be given. Properly 
fertilized plants are less susceptible to attacks of diseases and insects. 
We have found that dusting sulphur (300 mesh) applied to the under side of the 
leaves with a dusting gun or sprayer is an effective control for a number of insects es- 
pecially leaf hoppers and red spider. In our gardens we use no other spray material. If 
insects are taking their toll in your garden have your local seedsman recommend a spray 
material for your special problem. Many insects are discouraged from attacking a plant 
covered with a white dust whether it is a poison or just a harmless substance such as 
flour. Mildew in the late fall can be absolutely prevented by one application of ''dustinc 
sulphur’ applied to the under sides of the lower leaves. Use a dust gun of some sort 
and do the dusting early in the morning when the dew is on the leaves. About September 
Ist is the time to make this application. 
Large specimen blooms are the result of systematic dis-budding and dis-branching. 
After the buds appear it will be noted that they usually come in clusters of three. The 
one in the center is generally the strongest. Remove the other two and the effort that 
the plant would expend in producing flowers from them goes to the terminal bud which 
is left. The next two or three sets of branches (at each leaf below the terminal bud) may 
also be removed, further increasing the size of the bloom to be produced. Be sure, how- 
ever, that at least one set of branches is left to produce the next flowers. 
Many varieties have a tendency to grow straight up with but a single stalk. If a 
bushy plant is desired pinch out the top of the plant when it is about eighteen inches 
tall. Other varieties may produce too many branches in which case some may be cut 
out. Plants which have been pinched out may be dis-budded as per instructions above. 
After the frost has destroyed the plants in the fall cut the stalk off at the ground. 
An ordinary saw is fine for this. If possible leave the clump in the ground for a week 
or ten days before digging. A long tinned fork is best for digging the clumps. Be 
careful not to break or even strain the necks of the tubers. One person with a fork on 
each side of the clump to be dug can lift the clump out with less damage. Do not leave 
the clumps exposed to the sun or wind for more than a few minutes. If the clumps are 
too moist to store at once dry them off a bit in the shade or basement. Cut the stalk 
off to within a couple of inches of the crown. This largely helps to prevent stem rot 
later. Store the clumps in containers well lined with newspaper to keep out the air as 
much as possible. Keep the containers in a cool frost-proof basement. After the clumps 
have been stored for three or four weeks examine them for stem rot or other decay. If 
decay has set in leave them exposed to the air for a day. Splitting the clumps in two 
will help prevent stem rot. Trim out any decayed parts and dust with sulphur. A little 
sulphur sprinkled over the clumps when they are put in the containers will prove bene- 
ficial. If the clumps show signs of shrivelling moisten them with a little water and add 
more covering. 
The clumps may be divided at any time but it is best to wait until the eyes or sprouts 
show distinctly. Never plant the entire clump. For best results divide it so that there is 
but one sprout to each division. Usually good clumps will average four or more divisions. 
We will be glad to answer any further questions regarding these or any other 
phases of dahlia culture. OUR SERVICE DOES NOT END WITH THE SALE. 
34 
