All Ruffles 
The ruffled seedling we featured in last 
vear’s catalogue gave us a fine increase 
which we did not expect from the previous 
vear’s increase. If it performs well and 
gives as good increase next blooming we 
will release it in 1942. We are ealling it All 
Ruffles for a garden name. However, we 
plan on giving it a name when introduced. 
So many ruffled glads coming out the 
last few vears, we can seareely say it is the 
beginning of a new race, but we will say it 
is indeed very beautiful both in color and 
ruffling. It is a seedling of Ruffled Prin- 
cess, coming indirectly from New Era and 
Picardy, a LaFrance pink. No bulbs to be 
let out this year. 
How and Where to 
Grow Glads 
Be sure to give them full sunshine if possible. 
Do not grow them against a building. Be very 
careful in using barnyard manure. 
Any good garden soil will grow good flowers if 
watered properly. Do not depend on a light sprink- 
ling each evening to be sufficient water. Most of 
such water goes up in hot summer and never 
reaches the subsoil, Make a shallow trench 8 or 10 
inches from the plants or between the rows and let 
the water run until the ground is thoroughly wet. 
The length of time this will take depends on the 
nature of your soil. This need not be done every 
day. Large bulbs should be planted from 4 to 8 
inches deep and three or four to the foot in the 
row. Some good commercial fertilizer is good for ATTA UEELES 
best spikes. Be careful not to use too much. 
For a long blooming season plant all sizes of bulbs and if you live where bulblets have 
time to bloom you will be surprised the nice late flowers you will have from some varieties of 
bulblets. It must be remembered some varieties will not bloom much from bulblets the first 
year. Take the larger bu!blets and plant them eight or ten to the foot for best results. 
Some of the standards we know to be good bloomers from bulblets and smallest bulbs: 
Picardy, Aladdin, Coral Glow, Vagabond Prince, Early Peach, Valeria, Myrna, Dr. Bennett, 
Dream o’ Beauty, Shirley Temple. These are only suggestions and it must be remembered 
Oregon is a long season part of the country along the coast and bulblets in shorter season 
parts might be a disappointment. However it is worth trying. 
Be sure to treat your bulbs for thrip, no matter where you get them. To kill thrip 100 per 
cent is a real task. There are a number of liquid treatments that will kill thrip. Naphthaline 
flakes will kill them in three weeks if kept in a warm place where the eggs will hatch. Place 
the bulbs in a close container, not metal, but wood, or best, paper bags, and add naphthalene 
flakes at the rate of 1 ounce to every 100 bulbs. If the bulbs are extra large, the proportion 
of flakes should be somewhat increased. The bulbs should be kept in the flakes for three 
weeks or month in a warm place 60 to 70°F. After three or four weeks remove the flakes and 
transfer the bulbs to open trays or boxes in a cool room that is free from frost. 
To dip the bulbs before planting is another good experiment. Lysol is best. Use 4 tea- 
sponfuls to 1 gal. of water and immerse bulbs for six hours. Can be done two or three weeks 
before planting. Treated bulbs should be stored in a room away from untreated bulbs. 
SPRAYS—It is well to spray the plants as soon as they are three or four inches high 
every week until about ready to bloom, with Tartar Emetic. Water, 10 gallons; Tartar 
Emetic, 4% pound; brown sugar, 2 pounds. 

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