
THRIPS CONTROL 
MADE EASY 
+ 
Control of thrips is now very definitely a matter 
of record. In fact, one brief sentence tells the story 
—start the season with clean bulbs, then either 
plant early, or spray regularly, or both. 
PLANT EARLY 
December and January are the safest months in southern 
California; January and February in central California; 
and March in most other places. Migratory thrips from 
neighboring gardens are not likely to reach such early 
plantings in time to injure the blooms. ‘The damage is not 
from the first few thrips, but from the thousands of off- 
spring that develop after several weeks of breeding. 
START SPRAYING EARLY 
Early plantings should give uninjured blooms; regular 
spraying, started while the plants are young, makes it 
almost certain that your blooms will come through in good 
shape. Spraying is essential for late or for very large plant- 
ings. Start when the plants are two to three inches tall, and 
spray at least once a week. ‘To avoid spray-burning, never 
spray until evening during spells of warm weather. 
TO PROTECT OR SAVE YOUR OWN BULBS 
If you have had thrips, you do not need to throw your bulbs 
away. Dig them while the stalks are still a little green 
(about five weeks after blooming), and cut off and burn 
ALL the old stalks just before digging. Keep the bulbs 
away from other infested plantings while curing. When 
thoroughly cured, store them. Sprinkle one pound of 
napthalene flakes among each thousand bulbs. Small quan- 
tities of bulbs should be placed in a small bag, which, in 
turn, should be placed (open at the top) in a large bag 
containing a few napthalene flakes. This is to keep the 
bulbs from direct contact with the napthalene; where the 
quantity of bulbs is larger, other means should be taken to 
accomplish the same result. Not more than twenty-four 
hours before planting, peel the bulbs and dip them in 
120° hot water for about two minutes. (About as hot as the 
average person can stand with his hand fully immersed.) 
NOTE: The bulbs we supply have been fully protected by 
fumigation, and need not be treated unless stored with 
your other bulbs after leaving our sheds. 
SPRAYS 
We are inclined to select the Barfoot Rotenone Spray or 
Tartar Emetic as the most effective. We use it, and if you 
cannot get it locally, we can supply it. However, for the 
small garden, other sprays, such as Lethane 440, are very 
good—in fact, if your planting is not large, use almost any 
kind of spray that you use on the rest of the garden. But be 
sure to spray often—once a week for small plantings, oft- 
ener for large patches of gladiolus. Bear in mind, however, 
that spraying is done to keep down stray thrips, but seldom 
does any good once you have a bad infestation. However, 
you can always save choice spikes, even in an infestation 
by giving them daily “massaging” while the spike is in bud. 
This crushes and kills the thrips that are hidden in the 
sheaf, and these are the thrips that do the “dirty work.” 

CALIFORNIA 

12 < . Carl Salbach... 
