The Problem of HAULING SOIL, SUMBCART Ritecl wih a conacity of 3 cubic fet, it costs only 310.75 
HOW TO MAKE A LAWN 
Dig the soil about 6 inches deep, but only when it is dry; if rain has fallen recently allow a few 
days of fine weather to elapse before commencing. As you dig, lift each clod high enough to enable 
you to turn it completely over. Strike the inverted clod with the back of the fork to break it. Remove 
all stones, sticks, and rubbish. Scatter *Emerald Grass Fertilizer on the dug earth; use 50 pounds to 
each 1000 square feet. Draw a rake back and forth until the soil is smooth and in fine condition. 

The story of a good lawn 
Sow good lawn seed at the minimum rate of 1 pound (about 114 quarts) to each 200 square feet. 
Double the quantity for spring seeding and when turf is needed quickly. Select a day when no wind 
is blowmg; divide the seed mto two portions and sow the land twice to insure Its eyen covering. 
When you have distributed the seed, rake the Iand once more, but very lightly. Do not work the 
rake back and forth—merely draw it toward you in a series of light strokes, raking only once in the 
same place so as to bury most of the grass seeds no more than \% inch deep. 
Roll the seeded area, but should rain fall before the work is completed, defer the rolling until 
the Iand has dried or dispense with it altogether. 
How about grub-proofing? Where Japanese beetles abound, also broadcast *Senoled at 25 pounds 
per 1000 square feet when the lawn is bemg made; use it annually thereafter. Senoled is a mixture of lead 
arsenate and plant-foods. 
How long will the lawn be growing? Under very favorable conditions the young seedlings show 
through im less than ten days and the whole area looks green in a further two weeks; wait four weeks more 
before walking on the grass except to mow It. 
When is the best time? Early spring and late summer are most favorable, while seed wil] do well on 
level ground if sown in winter. Watch for and remove crab grass from late spring sowings. Do not sow 
during hot weather. 
Will the above directions hold on poor or sandy land? Before commencing work on poor soil 
spread *Sawconure at the rate of 100 pounds to each 1000 square feet. Do not attempt to grow a Jawn on 
excavated soil, subsoil, or “‘fill’’ without first applymg Sawconure, digging, then adding at least 1 inch of 
top-soil. When preparing soil of this character, 1000 pounds of *Humus per 1000 square feet may also be 
used to advantage. In every case apply Emerald Grass Fertilizer as suggested above. 
How about moist, sour soil? Spread *Pulverized Limestone on the dug-over land at the rate of 100 
pounds to each 1000 square feet and rake m; wait a week and then follow direction. In bad cases it will be 
necessary first to drain the Iand by digging ditches and laying tile. 
Should I sprinkle the new lawn? Yes, if seeding is followed by hot, dry weather. Otherwise it is 
best not to water for the first three weeks for fear of disturbing the seed. Later when the grass has started 
the young Iawn should never be allowed to become dry. 
What after-care is needed? As soon as the young grass is 2 inches high, begin cutting it and keep it 
regularly mown; roll it occasionally, and water it during dry weather. 
How about White Clover? We include Clover only in our “High Grade” Lawn Seed, Urban, and New 
Jersey Formulas 1 and 4. We omit it from all other mixtures, because Clover is often not liked nowadays in 
the finest lawns. For the convenience of our customers who wish it, we offer Superfine White Clover sepa- 
rately (see page 8). Mixed with grass seeds, the usual allowance of Clover is 5 per cent. 
REJUVENATING A LAWN 
LARGE-SCALE RENOVATING 
First, mow closely and remove weeds. Then: 
1. Scratch the surface with a rake. 
2. Broadcast *Sawconure, 50 pounds per 1000 
square feet, and *Emerald Lawn Fertilizer, 25 
pounds per 1000 square feet. At this time, 
spreading sufficient top-soil to make an even 
surface without hiding the grass, will be bene- 
ficial. 
3. Rub with the back of the rake. 
4. Sow good lawn seed, 214 pounds per 1000 
square feet. 
5, Again rub with the back of the rake. Grass 
must be dry; early spring and late summer 
are the most favorable seasons. 
ROUTINE CARE 
Mow twice a week, setting your machine so that 
it cuts the grass moderately long, especially during 
July and August. Do not remove clippings; if they are 
unsightly it shows that you do not cut often enough. 
Water an established lawn only when it Is 
needed, but give plenty during dry spells in July and 
August. Use an approved sprinkler and soak every 
three days. On established Iawns watering is usually 
unnecessary in spring and fall. 
Weeding. All soils contain seeds of weeds and 
many of them start to grow along with the grass; 
these, ordinarily, are not removed from a new Jawn 
NEW YORK CITY 


REPAIRING A LAWN 
RENOVATING SMALL AREAS 
Should your lawn fail in spots, if some areas are 
thin or bare, or when you cannot get grass to grow 
under trees: 
1. Roughen the surface with a rake. 
2. Apply *Lawnspread. 
_ Perhaps deliverymen cut corners and wear a path 
in the turf; here again, *Lawnspread will help. ‘This 
mixture of soil materials, plant-foods, insecticides, 
fungicides, and grass seed is described on page 5. 
Allow one unit to each 200 square feet and apply every 
month, from March to November, until the turf is 
perfect. 
OF YOUR LAWN 
at first, because mowing will kill most. Six weeks 
after the first cutting, however, take out whatever 
weeds may then be seen. It is important to dig deep 
down for dandelions and plantains, while for crab 
grass it is sufficient to cut the plant off at the ground- 
level. Fill all weed-holes with *Lawnspread. 
Feeding. Spread *Emerald Grass Fertilizer every 
spring at the rate of 25 pounds per 1000 square feet, 
and *Sawconure, at 50 pounds per 1000 square feet, 
late every autumn. *Limestone every second winter, 
at the rate of 50 pounds per 1000 square feet, will 
be helpful in most sections. 
*These materials, Emerald Grass Fertilizer, Humus, Sawconure, Senoled 7 
and Limestone, are described and offered 
on pages 131, 134 and 135 

