Cultural Notes 
SOIL AND FERTILIZER. Gladiolus do well on most any soil but they must be planted 
in the open garden where there is plenty of sunshine and sufficient moisture. Any good 
garden soil is quite satisfactory. Soil should have good drainage, as gladiolus do not 
like ‘‘wet feet’’. If your soil is not rich in humus, you may apply good stable manure 
and turn it under in the fall. Providing manure is not available you may use pulverized 
sheep or cow manure in the bottom of the trench at planting time, covering it with about 
an inch of soil so that it does not come in contact with the bulb, and then plant the 
bulbs. A good all around commercial fertilizer may be used as side dressing along the 
rows, Starting with the time when the plants are about six inches high. Keep the 
fertilizer back about six inches from the plant, making sure that none of it comes in 
direct contact with the leaves as serious burning of the foliage would ensue. After the 
side dressing is made, thoroughly soak down with water. We have found that 2-12-6 
or 2-16-8 fertilizers work out very well. Another side dressing could be made just 
before blooming or when you can see the stem commence to thicken, indicating that 
the buds will soon be shoving up from the foliage. Immense spikes are obtained by 
heavy fertilizing, plus at least an inch of water about every four days. When you 
water them soak them as just a light sprinkling does more harm than good. 
PLANTING. Work the soil well to a depth of eight to ten inches. Large bulbs should 
be covered with not less than four inches of soil and many cover them to a depth of 
six inches. The deeper planting produces a root growth a greater distance below the 
surface of the ground and also tends to prevent them from tipping over when in bloom. 
The smaller bulbs are planted shallower than the large bulbs, but in any event not less 
than two inches in depth. Make your rows from 18” to two feet apart, depending on 
the room you have available in your garden. Plant the bulbs about eight inches apart 
in the row, however, they may be planted closer together than this but the closer they 
are together the more fertilizer and water you will have to use to produce an equal 
quality of bloom. Providing you wish to plant the buibs in beds, space the bulbs about 
six inches to eight inches each way. 
BULBLETS. Bulblets are sown in rows much the same as you would peas and covered 
with two inches of soil. Rare kinds of bulblets should be partially peeled so that the 
small bulb will have no difficulty in breaking through. Do not let your planting of bulblets 
dry out during the process of germination. 
TREATING BULBS. If you wish to make sure your bulbs are thrips free, you may treat 
them before planting with Corrosive Sublimate (THIS IS A DEADLY POISON AND 
CARE SHOULD BE USED IN HANDLING IT. KEEP IT AWAY FROM CHILDREN). 
One ounce to ten gallons of water in a wood container or earthenware crock. Soak 
bulbs or bulblets overnight in this solution and plant them when wet. If you let them 
dry out before planting you may have trouble with mercury burns on your bulbs which 
may prevent them from coming up. Our bulbs are guaranteed to be free from thrips 
when shipped to you. 
DIGGING AND STORAGE. The bulbs should be taken up within six weeks to two 
months after blooming, or before the tops begin to get brown. Even if the tops are 
still green, they should be taken up before the ground freezes deeply. As soon as dug 
the tops should be cut off close to the bulb, and the bulbs placed in screen bottomed 
trays for curing. Keep out of the direct rays of the boiling hot sun during the curing 
process but be sure there is plenty of ventilation around and through the trays. The 
trays should not be more than three or four inches deep. Stir the bulbs every few days 
and keep in a dry ventilated place. In a couple or three weeks they will be cured so 
that the old bulbs with the roots may be easily removed. After removing the old bulb 
and roots, allow them to dry for about a week more before they are placed in storage. 
Bulbs should be dry and free from moisture when placed in winter storage. Common 
greenhouse flats with the bottoms removed and common window screen tacked on the 
bottom makes a good storage tray for small quantities of bulbs. 
Store them in a cool dry place. A storage temperature of from 40 to 45 degrees 
is best. A little ventilation does them good providing a direct draft does not hit the 
bulb and be sure that the air with which you are ventilating is not below freezing 
temperature. It is well to look the bulbs over every two or three weeks and if any of 
them show signs of too much moisture or have a mouldy look, dry them out and give 
better ventilation. Keep them in small containers and spread thin. 
OPEN UP YOUR SHIPMENT. When your shipment of bulbs arrive, unpack at 
once and open the bags letting in the air. If they appear to be moist, allow them to 
dry before placing in storage. 
DIVi J 
