After blooming season is over, generally about two 
weeks, the bulbs are ready to dig. Do not wait until 
the plants have turned brown as the new bulb will lose 
a lot of its vitality and will produce only a plant the 
next year. When digging cut off the tops close to the 
bulbs. Dry well in the air. 
Cure thoroughly indoors for a few weeks after which 
time the roots and bulblets should be removed. Burn 
old roots. Bulbs should then be stored in shallow con- 
tainers in a cool, dry basement, at a temperature of forty 
degrees. If conditions are not as stated cover bulbs 
with dry sand. 
Directions for Controlling Disease and Thrip 
There are many insects that feed somewhat on 
Gladiolus but only one type of THRIP is injurious. 
This insect is rather hard to detect but this can be done 
by closely watching the foliage of the plants which 
turns an irregular silver-gray color. 
The following formula to be used as a spray on the 
plants is the best for thrip control: Tarter emetic 2 ozs., 
Brown Sugar 8 ozs., Water 3 gallons. Spraying should 
start as soon as any Glodiolus thrip are found and cont- 
inue at weekly intervals until the spikes start to bloom. 
Thrips on Gladiolus in storage are much easier to 
detect and can be told from other bulb disease. The 
surface cells are destroyed, the injured area turns a 
russet brown color. If the work is fresh, upon removing 
the husk, the bulb is sticky to the touch. Close exam- 
ination of the bulb will reveal adults and larvae under- 
neath the husk showing feeding injury. 
There are different fumigants but the best for the 
small grower is as follows: Place small lots of bulbs in 
paper bags and add Napthalene flakes at the rate of 
one ounce for every 1CO bulbs. Tie bag shut and allow to 
remain for three weeks at 60 degrees Fahr. or higher. 
