TUBEROUS BEGONIAS 
GIANT SINGLE TYPE 
The individual flowers of this group often reach astonishing 
size of from 8 to 12 inches in diameter; carried on strong, 
stiff stems. They are very decorative as large specimen plants 
in tubs or for bedding purposes, where they will form a solid 
sheet of color. 
Colors 
White Rose Yellow Scarlet 
Pink Salmon Orange Dark Red 
SINGLE FRILLED TYPE (CRISPA) 
Perhaps the most adorable of the single types. The large, 
individual flowers are beautifully frilled and ruffled at the 
edge. 
Colors 
Solid Colors—White Yellow Scarlet 
Pink Orange Dark Red 
Variations—Rose Light Salmon Apricot 
Crimson Rose Dark Salmon 
Fascination: On cream background, edged in rosy red. 
SINGLE NARCISSIFLORA TYPE 
A new form recently developed. The flowers resemble some- 
what the trumpet daffodils, hence its name. Daffodil flowered. 
Very effective as a pot plant. 
Colors 
Yellow Salmon Shades 
Salmon Shades 
Orange Salmon Shades 
Red Shades 
SINGLE CRESTED TYPE CRISTATA 
The accompanying picture speaks for itself as to the beauty 
of this type, which we have highly improved in recent years. 
Dwarf, stocky growth, with masses of flowers, make this 
type suitable both for bedding and show purposes. 
Colors 
Pink Shades Crimson Rose Yellow Scarlet 
Rose Shades Salmon Shades Orange Dark Red 
PRICE OF SINGLE TYPES 
TUBERS... Delivery, January to March. 
Large size, 20c each; $2.00 per dozen; $14.00 per 100. 
Medium size, 15c each; $1.50 per dozen; $10.00 per 100. 
SEEDLING PLANTS... Delivery, May-June. $1.00 per 
dozen; $7.50 per 100. F.O.B. Capitola. 
SEED .. . 50c per packet; 25c per half packet. 
CULTURE OF TUBEROUS BEGONIAS—Continued 
will be the result. Before they get too crowded, transplant 
in the same manner again farther apart, until strong enough 
to be planted out in the open or, if desired, potted up... . If 
planting in open ground, enrich the soil liberally with well- 
rotted cow or sheep manure and a sprinkling of bone meal. 
If soil is heavy, add plenty of either leaf mold, peat or sand 
or a mixture of all, so that the ground will be light and 
porous. Plant in a shaded position, such as under the trees or 
north side of the house, where direct sunlight cannot reach 
them. Keep well watered; fine, overhead sprinkling preferred. 
FEEDING ... If a very strong growth is desired, additional 
feeding can be given when the plants reach approximately 
four to five inches in height, either by the sprinkling of one- 
half teaspoonful of ammonium phosphate around each plant 
or approximately a heaping teaspoonful of cottonseed meal, 
which should be worked into the soil slightly, not too close 
to the stem. This dose will usually prove sufficient for the 
whole season but can be duplicated again later in the summer 
when the plants are in full bloom, which will prolong the 
flowering season to some extent. 
DIGGING AND STORAGE ..... In autumn, when the 
foliage turns yellow, withdraw the water gradually and when 
all growth dies down entirely, take out, wash off all soil, 
taking care not to bruise the tubers, dry in sunlight for a day 
or two until thoroughly dry, then store in open flats in cool, 
dry place. See that all particles of the old stem are removed 
until healthy tissue shows; otherwise, if left on, they will 
decay and destroy the tuber. 
TUBERS... If early flowering is desired, place tubers dur- 
ing January and February in a warm place in open flats, 
moisten slightly once in a while and gradually, as they begin 
sprouting buds, plant in flats filled with peat, only about three 
inches apart, according to the size of the tuber, so that they 
are only slightly covered. Keep uniformly moist but not too 
wet, in a warm place, well lighted, until three or four inches 
of growth develops; then plant in pots or permanent position 
as desired. The front is always where the tips of the leaves are 
pointing. Often, if dormant tubers are planted in the open 
ground, especially if it is cold and too wet, numbers of them 
rot and the planting will be uneven, some coming earlier, 
some later, and facing haphazard way. Started first in peat, 
they will develop splendid root systems, which are necessary 
for developing good specimens. 
POT CULTURE ... For pot culture, any rich, light soil is 
suitable. Mixture of two parts of coarse leafmold, one part of 
loam will bring good results. It is important for mixture to be 
of light, coarse character, so that it will drain well. Finely- 
sifted soil will pack down without permitting the circulation 
of air, hence only a moderately good result can be expected. 
Perfect drainage is most important, and to provide it, place 
at least one inch deep of gravel on the bottom of the pot. 
When potting up, use smaller pots in beginning and move 
later into larger pots before they are pot-bound. If tubers are 
well started in peat, with considerable root system, they may 
be planted immediately in large pots approximately from six 
to eight inches for one-year-old tubers. Older, larger tubers 
will, of course, require larger pots. Very great care with water- 
ing is necessary when they are planted immediately in large 
pots. Keep the surface only moist in the young stage, until 
the growth is well developed, and then heavier watering is 
justified. If you over-water the soil in the beginning, it will 
become sour, the plants will make only a sickly growth, buds 
will fall off before blooming and the plants may die out en- 
tirely. This is true especially of hanging basket types. If very 
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