CULTURAL HINTS » Continued 
Pruning 
When a Rose is set in the Spring, shorten the 
strong branches to 6 or 8 inches, and the weaker even 
more. Heap the soil as high as the branches are 
pruned, to protect against drying out, until the roots 
become established. Remove this bank of soil when 
the shoots start, so that the bud, or crown, is about 
level with the soil surface. 
If you want long stems and large flowers, pick 
your blooms with long stems. For quantities of 
bloom, cut short stems and nip old blossoms after 
the petals fall. In cutting first blossoms from the big, 
strong canes which have shot up from the base of 
the plant, leave enough of that strong stem to form 
the structure of a bush. Cut side branches back to 
one or two leaves when cutting flowers. 
The only Fall pruning recommended is shortening 
tall bushes, down to about 2 feet, so that they will 
not windwhip. The real pruning for established 
bushes is given mm the Spring when the bank of soil is 
removed. At this time remove dead wood from the 
Hybrid Teas and cut the strong branches down to 
the highest big live bud. Shorten or remove weak 
growths. 
Hybrid Perpetuals can be shortened down about 
one-third and from climbers the dead wood should 
be removed. In July, after the first big burst of 
bloom is over, you may again prune climbers, but 
pruning is not recommended unless the plant is too 
large for the trellis. The weak branches of Polyan- 
thas should be cut down and the strong ones short- 
ened one-half. 
Feeding 
Bonemeal is the only Fall fertilizer for Roses that 
is recommended. After the ground has become 
frozen, apply fresh, strawy manure if it is procurable. 
In the Spring, when the bank of soil is removed, 
apply Wyant Rose Food, or else a complete chemical 
fertilizer, to the established plants but not to newly 
set Roses. Wyant Rose Food is recommended, be- 
cause it is of organic composition rather than chemi- 
cal, and even after long usage does not make the soil 
toxic, nor burn, as a chemical fertilizer will. Much 
fertilizing will produce much bloom, so during June 
or early July make another application to new as well 
as to established Roses, and then again im the latter 
part of August, not after September Ist. Each time, 
apply about a handful to medium strong bushes, less 
to weaker, and more to stronger bushes. 
Watering 
If the soil around your Roses is kept cultivated, it 
will seldom be in need of watering. However, during 
an extended drought, it is advisable to water. When 
you do water your Roses, soak the ground thoroughly 
for hours and then do not repeat for a week. It does 
no harm to wet the foliage occasionally for a short 
time so as to wash it off, but ordinarily it is recom- 
mended that watering be done on the ground at the 
base of the plants. 
An application of peat put on in July and left the 
rest of the season helps to retain moisture and keeps 
the soil cooler and in better condition for Rose 
growing. 
Disease and Insect Control 
A little attention and care will remedy the few dis- 
eases and insects that attack Rose plants. Dusting 
is preferable to spraying, for it is easier and quicker. 
Spray or dust aphids, the small green lice that 
appear about the tips of the shoots, with insecticides 
contaming nicotine or rotenone. Spray or dust 
worms and insects that eat leaves, with rotenone or 
with a poison, such as arsenate of lead, one of the 
ingredients of Wyant’s Massey Dust. Erther of the 
above pests can be controlled with Wyant Rose 
Dust. 
Knock Rose chafers, the large grayish bugs with 
long legs and snouts, to a pan of water covered 
with coal oil. Place a drop of shellac or thick white 
lead on all cut ends in the Spring, to keep out the 
carpenter bee, which makes a hole in the exposed 
ith. 
Z Prevent black-spot, the disease which makes 
leaves drop off, by dusting with any of Wyant’s 
Dusts beginning as soon as the leaves come out and 
continuing about every week, and more often in 
rainy weather. Apply a light, even coat with a gun 
on a calm evening before the dew, if possible, thereby 
provecting the foliage so that it will be retained until 
rost, 
Mildew, which causes the young leaves to turn 
white and curl, can also be controlled by dusting 
with Wyant’s Dusts. 
It is so important to keep your Roses healthy and 
so easy to do it with our dust and gun that it gives 
considerable added satisfaction when you retain the 
foliage on the bushes throughout the season and get 
that marvelous crop of blooms in the Fall. Start 
dusting early and be conscientious about continuing 
it often. 

Syerialist, MENToR, Onto 
19 
George Chesnel 

Faience 

