
Easter Lily 

Bearded Iris 

Lilies 

14 
Cultural Hints on Bulbs ~ 
ASK FOR OUR SEASONABLE BULB LIST FOR COMPLETE LIST 
OF VARIETIES, DESCRIPTION AND PRICES 
FALL TIME IS BULB PLANTING 
TIME: Such bulbs as Dutch Hyacinths, 
French Roman Hyacinths, Tulips, Lilies, 
Narcissi or Daffodils, Crocus, Bulbous 
Iris, Bearded Iris, Anemones, Ranun- 
culus, etc., may be planted from August 
until Christmas. 
HYACINTHS should be planted from 
November 1 until December 15 in 
well drained soil and will give a riot 
of color in the spring. In forcing 
Dutch Hyacinths; plant them in pots 
and plunge or plant the pot at least 
four inches deep and cover with Peat 
or sand and let Nature grow them 
until they appear above the soil; then 
dig and bring in for forced blooms. 
FRENCH ROMAN HYACINTHS 
ean be forced in bulb fiber and raised 
in bowls for Christmas blooms if 
planted in September. 
LILIES vary a great deal in their time 
of planting and bloom. Lilium Can- 
didum or Madonna Lily should be 
planted in September and covered 
only two or three inches deep. Haster 
Lilies are best when planted in No- 
vember and December and other lilies 
such as Auratum, Henryii, Regale, 
and Rubrum can be planted any time 
from October until March. All lilies, 
with the exception of the Madonna 
Lily, should be covered deep with any- 
where from six to ten inches soil on 
top of the bulb for best results and 
if you will lay the bulb on its side, 
there is less danger of rotting, as 
moisture will not collect in the lower 
part of the bulb when planted in this 
manner. 
CROCUS are the heralds of spring 
and their bright colors will be 
a joy in low growing beds or 
naturalized in the grass or un- 
der trees. They should be 
planted not later than the mid- 
dle of October for best results. 
BEARDED IRIS CULTURE 
Iris is practically fool-proof; success 
will be certain if care is taken to fulfill 
its few cultural requirements. 
Open Season for Iris: The hardy 
perennial roots may be set in this lo- 
eality from blooming time through De- 
cember. The rhizons increase by form- 
ing new divisions or “toes”. Clumps 
may be divided as they become crowded 
and the divisions reset. Try to give the 
divisions time to get well established 
before winter weather. 
Soil: Plant in any good garden loam 
—a sandy soil is preferred. Lighten 
heavy soil by adding sand, peat moss, 
well-rotted material, humus, ete. Set 
roots 12 to 20 inches apart. Small grow- 
ing varieties may be set closer than 
large growing varieties and roots that 
are intended to be left for more than 
one season should be spaced accord- 
ingly. Barely cover the roots with soil, 
taking care to firm the soil about the 
roots so as to leave no air spaces. 
Iris Cannot Stand Wet Feet: This is 
the most important single consideration. 
Irises will grow in sun or shade, can 
stand any extreme of summer heat or 
winter cold, but they cannot live in a 
wet, soggy soil. To insure good drain- 
age, elevate beds and work toward a 
bed with a light, well-drained soil. 
Fertilizer: Avoid manure and heavy 
applications of “hot” fertilizer. Bone 
meal is both efficient and safe. Appli 
cations of basic slag, thoroughly worked 
into the soil improve bloom. Light ap- 
plications of commercial fertilizers, 
such as Vigoro, are good when applied 
during the growing season, 
Disinfection: Practically the only 
diseases are those caused by too much 
water. They may take the form of a 
leaf spot or root rot. If root rot is 
advanced, dig up and scrape away all 
soft parts and treat with any safe 
disinfectant (any disinfectant used as 
a potato dip will do) and replant in a 

Hyacinths 

LANE-WILSON SEED COMPANY, SHREVEPORT, LOUISIANA 
