SOIL ACIDITY AND LIME 
Strawberries grow best in a soil that is slightly 
acid. They grow satisfactorily in soils running from 
slightly sweet to moderately acid. They will hardly 
grow at all in soils that are moderately sweet or 
very acid. For those familiar with pH tests for soil 
acidity we can say that the optimum is from 5.7 to 
6. The range of satisfactory growth is from 5 to 7 
and they will survive within a range of 4 to 8. 
Experiments in Virginia and elsewhere demon- 
strate that strawberries will thrive under more acid 
conditions if there is a large content of organic 
matter. If lime is to be used to correct a very acid 
condition we would prefer to have it applied to the 
previous crop or at least during the fall preceding 
spring setting. 
Even though strawberries are known as an acid 
soil crop, yet some soils are so acid that an applica- 
tion of lime will be of great help. On the other. 
hand, unless excessive amounts of lime have been 
added, very few soils need be avoided on account 
of their lime content. 
Set Plants in Spring Early 
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most successful time to set strawberry 
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this spring, 1942, if you want a crop in 
spring or early summer, 1943. Fall 
planting (even if plants live) will mean 
little or no crop until the season of 1944. 
Everbearing varieties, even more than 
others, should be set early in the spring 
because they bear their best crop in the 
summer and fall of the same year and 
need the best possible start. 

HOW EARLY? 
Just as soon as weather permits getting ground 
ready. In the South, February, March and early 
April. In the middle states, March and April. In 
the Northern states, April. Also, the first half of 
May in late seasons and in states far north. 
WHY SO EARLY? 
1 Because strawberry plants live better and 
grow better if set early while soil is still cool 
and moist. 
2 Because plants set early start growing early 
——and new runner plants made in early sum- 
mer are much more productive than those 
made in late summer or fall. 
3 Because plants, freshly dug for late setting, 
have produced a heavy foliage growth. This 
drains much of the vitality from the roots. 
Such plants are more likely to spoil in 
transit, and less likely to grow after setting 
than plants dug and set before they have 
made so much growth. 
4 Avoid late setting or consider it a gamble. 
(a) Late setting in a hot, dry season— 
chances very poor. 
(b) Late setting in a cool moist season— 
chances fair. 
(c) Regardless of weather, chances with 
late setting are much better if plants 
have been dug early and held in storage 
at 32 degrees F. until ready to set. 
THE CARE OF PLANTS 
Set plants on arrival if possible. It will help 
if roots of plants can be dipped in water to allow 
both roots and leaves to plump up for some time 
before setting. When plants are carried to the 
field for setting it is most important to keep them 
covered so the roots will stay fresh and moist. A 
windy day is bad for setting because it dries out the 
roots so fast. ; 
To keep plants a few days remove top of crate 
and loosen plants a little but keep roots covered 
with the wet moss. Put them in a cool place. With 
early shipments (say up to April 15th) plants so 
treated should keep several days in good condition. 
Late shipments or those to be held a week 
or more should be heeledin. Dig a trench four to 
six inches deep, open the bundles and spread them 
in a thin layer with buds just at the surface of the 
ground. Cover with two or three inches of soil. 
Wet the soil and plants thoroughly. A light cover- 
ing of straw or other mulching material will protect 
the plants in case it gets quite cold before setting 
can be done. 
Plants dug in March while still dormant 
and stored at 32° F. have proved very satisfactory. 
Where setting cannot usually be done before May 
1, this practice is recommended if cold storage 
facilities are available. Several years’ tests by the 
New York Experiment Station showed better results 
from storage plants than from freshly dug plants in 
all cases where setting was done May Ist or later— 
Just as good results when setting was done as early 
as April 15. 
Small lots of plants can be kept in excellent 
condition for many days in the family refrigerator 
or ice box if there is room. 
CLIPPING THE ROOTS 
When set with spade or trowel it is usually not 
necessary nor desirable to clip the roots of straw- 
berry plants because they can be set without having 
the roots doubled up. However, if plants are extra 
29 
long rooted, if a horse drawn transplanter is used, - 
or if any less efficient method of planting is fol- 
lowed, clipping the roots down to about four inches 
long will help. This will make it easier to get a 
good job of setting and it does not injure the plants. 
