30 
DISTANCE TO PLANT 
We recommend setting plants in rows 3% to 4 
feet apart, or even as much as 4% feet if the soil is 
very fertile. The plants should be set 15 to 30 
inches apart in the row, depending on the variety, 
the condition of the soil, earliness of setting and the 
vigor of the plants used. If these things are all 
favorable, free growing varieties can be set safely 
at least two feet apart, but if set late in the season, 
they should be set as close as 15 inches to 18 inches 
apart. 
In small garden plots or where the hill system is 
used, distances can be varied to suit individual 
plots. 7,000 plants per acre is a safe number to 
calculate for larger plantings. 
PLANTS FOR VARIOUS PLANTING DISTANCE 
Rows 
apart 
a 24 aa 
In the row 
18 inches 
Total per acre 
9,680 plants 
7,260 “ 
I 7 
6,223 
py X10) 
5,445 
7,128 
Pa At 
£ 
fe 
KQrreeh hetameermnnnts (nee en: ete nt ore sce ghee 9h RNa Se a 
TOO SHALLOW JUST RIGHT TOO DEEP 
METHODS OF SETTING PLANTS 
A trowel, spade or dibble are the tools most often 
used in setting plants—and a good job can be done 
with them. It is important to have the roots straight 
down. Spreading them might help a little but not 
much. Hold the crown just as the surface of the 
ground go that when the soil is packed back against 
the roots with the hand or foot, the bud will not be 
covered nor the roots exposed. See picture for 
proper depth of planting. 
Where a horse drawn transplanter is used, it takes 
skill and experience to get the buds at just the right 
level and to keep from slanting in the plants. 
Nevertheless, many large growers have pretty good 
results in setting with the transplanter. 
Plants dug and set late often have rather short, 
partly dried up roots and very long leaf stems. The 
plant is topheavy and the tendency is to even up by 
setting too deep. This must not be done. 
It is alright to cut off the leaves and part of the leaf 
stems but the bud must not be covered if the plant 
is to live and grow. With these late plants use 
special care to keep the roots wet and press the 
ground firmly against them when setting. 



CULTIVATION 
Uncover the buds. The plants should be culti- 
vated and hoed soon after they have started growth 
after being set out. It is very important at the first 
hoeing to uncover the buds of any plants which may 
have been planted too deep or have become cov- 
ered after planting. If this is not done very early 
many of these plants will die. Most of them will not 
recover in time to amount to anything even though 
they might live all summer. On heavy soils this is 
even more important and in some cases is the big- 
gest single factor in failing to get a good stand of 
vigorous growing plants. 
Cultivate often enough to keep the surface of 
the ground from becoming crusted and to keep 
down the grass and weeds. It is not necessary to 
practice deep cultivation. A depth of one to one 
and one-half inches is deep enough for the hoe, or 
perhaps slightly deeper with the horse cultivator. 
Frequent cultivation should be given even though 
weed and grass growth is not a serious problem. 
It is important to remember also that two cultiva- 
tions made in time are much more helpful and 
much less work than one made after grass and 
weeds get bad. . 
Frequent hoeing and cultivation make lar- 
ger, stronger fruiting beds and a better crop of 
berries. We have found this to be especially true 
in getting a good bed of Chesapeake and other 
varieties which normally do not make many plants. 
CUTTING THE BLOSSOMS 
Blossoms should be removed from newly set 
plants as soon as they appear. To allow them to set 
berries and mature them involves a drain on the 
vitality of the plants. Removal of blossoms aids the 
plants in overcoming unfavorable conditions and in 
starting growth and runner production quicker. 
TRAINING 
We believe the well spaced matted row is the 
best system for getting the largest crops of the best 
berries. From four to eight plants per square foot 
are ample for fine results. If it can be done eco- 
nomically it will pay berry growers to use some 
method which will prevent thickly matted rows. 
Don’t be too fussy about exact spacing distance, 
but here are four suggestions. 
1 Form a wide fruiting row (up to 3 feet) with 
the first runners. 
Many surplus runners can be pulled or cut 
2 off with little extra cost if those who do the 
hoeing realize these extra runners are just as 
harmful as weeds. 
When plants have started to run freely avoid 
3 close horse cultivation—let them spread 
some. 
When plants for full width fruiting row have 
4 become established and there are still lots of 
extra runners, drive across the beds with 
light rake or harrow to pull runners to first 
one side of row and then the other where 
they can be cut off with rolling cutter. 
ADVANTAGES OF SPACING 
Fields that have been restricted to a maximum of 
six to eight plants per square foot of row have the 
following advantages over fields where plants are 
very thickly set. 
The total yield will be larger. 
The berries will be much larger in average size. 
