

QUALITY CHRYSANTHEMUM PLANTS 

in mind the fact that the basic principle of inducing widespread growth and maximum 
florescence remains the same regardless of the delineation of pattern desired. 
When plant is 5 or 6 inches high pinch top. From new growth reserve uppermost 
shoot for use as main leader. Stop remaining shoots at second or third joint. Later divide 
equally and train to either side of main leader. It is often desirable to use but one shoot 
on each side of main leader and remove the rest. 
When main leader is 12 inches high train to a firmly imbedded No. 10 galvanized 
wire 4 feet in length previously bent, at a point 5 inches above surface level of pot, to 
an angle of 45 degrees. Outer tip of wire must face to north. Tie end of main leader to 
supporting wire at weekly intervals. 
All laterals and sublaterals should be pinched systematically at every second or third 
joint throughout growing season to insure spread of growth and symmetry of form. As 
plant increases in width additional support is necessary for the purpose of stabilization. 
To overcome the natural tendency of plant to develop blooms from extreme tip first 
with a perceptible movement toward base, discontinue routine pinching about Sept. 1st. 
On Sept. 5th complete final pinching of broadest one-third or basal division, on Sept. 
10th the midsectional one-third and on Sept. 15th the final one-third. 
Gradually lower main leader so that it will be in a horizontal position about Sept. 
15th. When buds begin to form, with surface of plant facing south, start gradual down- 
ward bending of main leader and its support. When buds show color place on solid 
base at required height and bend to final vertical position. 
General Cultural Suggestions 
Following are a few vital facts pertinent to the subject of successful chrysanthemum 
culture: 
SOIL CONDITIONING—The chrysanthemum is a gross feeder. It is, therefore, neces- 
sary that the soil in which it is to be planted contains a sufficient amount of plant food 
to supply, without the aid of too frequent applications of liquid or commercial fertilizer, 
the demands of a long growing season. If in doubt as to the fertility of your land, we 
suggest that you work in with it a thoroughly rotted manure, well in advance of planting 
date and in quantities commensurate with the strength of the material used and the texture 
of the soil in question. Loose, sandy soil, particularly when of a nature unquestionably 
deficient in organic matter, should receive a heavier application per unit of space than 
that required by the same unit of space in a heavier and more productive soil. 
The nature and amount of plant food to be used during the growing season can 
best be judged by the character of your soil and the variety and condition of the plants 
to be treated. Avoid the hazards of over-fertilization. Discontinue feeding when buds 
begin to show color. 
PLANTING—Early planting is an important factor in the timely formation of a robust 
root system, a prerequisite to the growth of strong, sturdy plants and quality flowers. 
When seasonal blooms are desired at an advanced date it is doubly important that 
planting be done early in order that plants may attain sufficient height to permit the 
taking of crown buds. (SEE BUD SELECTION.) 
WATERING—Variation in the composition of soils and variation in climatic conditions, 
due to geographical differences, render the matter of watering a problem for local study 
and solution. However, here are a few salient points ever to be kept in mind if you are 
to avoid the consequences of a careless, haphazard plan of irrigation. 
(Continued on page 36) 
