WATERING 
Watering should be done first gently and with 
a fine sprinkler to prevent washing. It should 
be done often enough and generously enough 
to keep the soil and seed from drying out. 
After the grass is well started the watering 
should be more thorough and less frequent. 
Deep watering encourages the development 
of deep roots upon which the future success 
of the lawn largely depends. Shallow water- 
ing or sprinkling tends to bring the roots near 
the surface where they are guickly affected by 
severe heat. 
MOWING 
In mowing a new lawn set the blades to cut 
not less than 2 to 3 inches above the ground. 
As the turf becomes thick it can be mowed 
closer although the longer the grass can be left, 
consistent with good appearance, the better for 
the grass. Shortly clipped lawns dry out fast 
during hot summer months and when this con- 
dition once starts it is very hard to check. 
It is best to catch and remove all grass clip- 
pings each time the lawn is mowed. If this is not 
done they will form a soggy mat at the soil 
surface robbing the soil of Nitrogen (needed to 
decompose vegetation) and cause a sour condi- 
tion not beneficial to growing plants. 
ESTABLISHED LAWN 
To properly care for an established lawn a 
few simple rules should be followed each grow- 
ing season. Early in the spring the turf should 
be well raked with a steel or moss rake remov- 
ing all leaves and other material accumulated 
during the winter. An application of a complete 
plant food (4-12-4 formula) at the rate of four 
pounds to every one hundred square feet should 
be applied early in the spring to afford the lawn 
plenty of food right from the start. As dry 
weather comes on watering should be con- 
sistent and deep. The second application of 
fertilizer should be made about the first of July 
at the rate of two pounds per hundred square 
feet. This should be repeated again near the 
end of August. After the first rains in the fall a 
top dressing of one-third peat moss, one-third 
sand and one-third raw bone meal should be 
applied over the entire area at a thickness of 
one-fourth to one-half inch. If these steps are 
followed each year you will have a lawn that 
will be the envy of every home owner. 
LAWN WEEDS 
Weeds are without doubt the greatest enemy 
of all cultivated vegetation, be it lawn, vege- 
table, flower garden or field crop. Invariably 
they thrive anywhere, particularly on soils so 
sterile that the crop intended for that area can 
not thrive. 
Unfortunately, many weed seeds have the 
ability to retain their viability for many years, 
even when buried deeply in the soil. When 
supposably ‘weed free’’ ground is turned over 
and worked for planting, weeds will start grow- 
ing. Weed seed that has been dormant deep in 
the ground for many years will start to grow 
when worked up to soil surface. Nature has 
provided hundreds of ways of distributing these 
seeds. Some are carried through the air by the 
wind; others by run-off water after a heavy rain. 
Still others become mucilaginous and adhere to 
vehicles, the feet and fur of animals and the 
clothes of people. 
ERADICATING WEEDS 
Many methods of eradication, practical and 
theoretical, have been offered to the home gar- 
dener. Many good ways and many not so good. 
The facts we set down here are based upon our 
own knowledge and experiences. No doubt 
there are other methods equally as good but 
space does not allow detailed report. 
Contrary to many beliefs, Sulphate of Am- 
monia is not a very successful way to kill weeds 
as it is a highly concentrated nitrogen fertilizer 
and in many cases will actually increase the 
growth of weeds. A good complete fertilizer is 
good assurance against weeds as a thick healthy 
turf will crowd out many. 
SELECTIVE WEED KILLER 
There are several selective weed killers that can 
be applied in liquid form and successfully kill 
weeds without permanent injury to your lawn. 
The most effective and economical kind is 
LAWN SINOX. It has been thoroughly tested 
and approved by many leading agricultural col- 
leges in the United States. It has been used 
considerably here in the Northwest for two years 
with great results. It will control nearly all types 
of weeds—but must be used exactly as directed. 
The best results are obtained when the weeds 
are in the early stages of development and 
growing rapidly. This makes spring or early 
fall applications most desirable. Do not spray 
prior to rain or when the temperature is below 
50 degrees or above 80. Lawns should be 
watered thoroughly for two or three days before 
spraying unless sufficient moisture is present. 
Lawns should not be mowed a week previous 
to spraying. 
Apply the diluted material with some type of 
pressure sprayer. Distribute evenly over the 
area to be treated. Shallow-rooted weeds 
usually require only one application. Many 
deep-rooted weeds, such as dandelions and 
plantain, may require a second application. 
Repeated applications are made about two weeks 
apart, depending upon growing conditions and 
the speed with which the lawn grasses recover. 
Any old, tough, remaining perennial plants are 
easily removed by spotting, which is done by 
using the full strength stock solution and apply- 
ing directly to the crown with an oil can. The 
lawn should be watered two days after appli- 
cation provided there has been no rain in the 
meantime. Either write or come in for more 
complete information on LAWN SINOX. 
IT’S GOOD ECONOMY TO BUY THE BEST LAWN SEED 

