Page 20, 


THE DANIELS NURSERY 


Helpful Hints For The Fruit Grower | D=8N¥ savs— 

Stat 
FOR TWENTY-EIGHT YEARS we have ourselves been Tye Ce Figs Bumper crops 
fruit growers—with from 20 to 30 acres in fruit crops. With W fiw, : of large luscl- 
this first hand understanding of the fruit growers needs and cL V4 ous tree fruits 
problems it is only natural that we have long enjoyed a rep- Key don’t just happ- 
utation for furnishing “truly better” fruit plants. ry 
For foundation stock that will build a dividend paying a 
fruit planting, plant Daniels Fruit Plants. ] 

en. They are the 
result of proper 
. care in pruning, 
" spraying, fertilizing, and ground 
Plant Now For Orchard Profits culture of the right trees. “Right 
CSS? AA STS SU CRIA SS CM reas trees” mean the best varieties, 
been a marked decrease in appie trees both young and bear- propagated and grown to en- 
ing age in recent years. 
dure severe Northern climates 
Professor W. H. Alderman of the University of Minnesota in and dug, handled and packed to 
a circular issued by the Department of Agriculture says, reach you in perfect condition. 
“There has been a rapid and consistent decrease in the num- Daniels trees are “RIGHT 
ber of bearing apple trees in the United States in the period TREES” in every respect—you’ll 
since 1910. The decrease amounted to 23 per cent between 1920 like them! 
and 1930, and 41 per cent between 1910 and 1930. Trees are not 

being planted fast enough to replace the old or- plantings have been few. 
chards that are going out. This is especially Fortunate in one way is this “weeding” pro- 
true in Minnesota where the ratio of bearing cess of nature, as most of the older orchards were 
trees to young trees is five to one.” 
comprised largely of rather inferior and undesir- 
These figures above show trends in apple or- able varieties. Fortunate, too, is the planter of to- 
chard planting and acreage up to 1930. What has’ day, for he has available varieties so vastly su- 
happened since is now history. We have all seen perior to most of the older sorts that they have 
the toll that drouth, heat and cold have taken in changed the whole outlook for orcharding in the 
our older orchards. It is common prediction that middle west. 
over 50 per cent (many Say 75 per cent) of the The man who gives a thought to Tomorrow’s 
apple trees in central, western and northern Min- Orchard, and then acts, will be planting an in- 
nesota that were bearing in 1930 will be “out of vestment that will be a constantly increasing 
the picture” in another four or five years. New source of satisfaction and income for years. 
Orchard Culture 
ruit trees should be planted in the spring ex- 
cepting on. city lots where they are moderately 
protected and where ample water can be given, 
in which case fall planting is entirely satisfac 
tory. Trees should be set about two inches deeper 
than they grew in the nursery row and _ roots 
should be well spread with only good black top 
soil coming in contact with them. After firming 
well, leave a small basin with loose soil on the 
top. The newly set trees should be pruned to pro- 
duce a good branching ‘‘scaffold’’ with the 
permanent limbs as far apart as possible up and 
down and as evenly spaced as possible around 
.the trunk. 
They should be well cultivated the first year 
until the latter part of July. If in lawns or other 
areas where real cultivation is not practical keep 
an ever increasing area around the trees spatied 
up and cultivated by hand. After the trees reach 
bearing age apples and pears may be left in sod 
but plums and cherries do best if cultivated. 
Where cultivation is not practical in plums and 
cherries and as a supplement to sod cultivation 
‘in apples and pears, mulching may be practiced. 
Hay, lawn clippings, leaves, strawy manure, or 
any Similar material may be used to form this 
mulch. In the fall apples and pears should be 
protected against mice and rabbits. (see page 11) 
Subsequent to the first year trees should 
be pruned annually in the dormant period, thin- 
ning out crowding or crossing branches, head- 
ing back moderately any exceptionally strong 

MATERIALS FOR SPRAYING MINNESOTA APPLES 
1. ARSENATE OF LEAD AND LIME SULPHUR SPRAY 

Wiatervhs 22 Se a oe en ee eee ee 50 gals.—1 gal. 
Arsenatemot eadsepowdered p= = = = eee eee 1% lbs.—3 tsp. 
Lime sulphure commercials liqe= =a ee 5 qts.—12tsp. 
Or LIMeMSUlLp hie ecommorcialerd ry.) e ee 5 lbs.—4 tsp. 
Use heaping teaspoonfuls 
2. NICOTINE SULPHATE SPRAY 
Water st set 2 eee eee a ee ee 50 gals.—1 gal. 
Nicotinesoulphatend 0; per cent mse eee Y% pt.—1%, tsp. 
SOaDs— alive in eee eo ee ee ee oe eee 2-3 Ibs.—loz. 
General notes: Spraying should be done under high pressure. 
Two hundred pounds or more is better than low pressure. Cover 
every tree and plant thoroughly. and above all, be sure to do 
the spraying at the proper time, as a delay of a few days will 
impair its effectiveness. 
SPRAYS FOR APPLES AND PEARS 
First Spray: (Pre-pink) When one-half to one inch of the first 
leaves are visible, use No. 1, omitting lead arsenate. 
Second Spray: When tne first flower buds show pink: use No. 1. 
ne at Spray: As soon as most of the petals have dropped, use 
Oust 
Fourth Spray: Two to three weeks after the third, use No. 1. 
Later Sprays: If codling moth, apple maggot or scab are severe. 
yne or two later applications may be necessary, about July 20, and 
for later varieties, August 10. use No. 1. ‘ 
NOTES 
Scale Insects and Eggs of Plant Lice: Spray with liquid lime- 
sulphur, one part to seven parts water, or powdered lime-sulphur 
20 pounds to 50 gallons of water, before buds open. : 
f Plant Lice: If lice are noticed on apples, plums, or other plants 
in early spring, just as the buds are bursting, spray with nicotine 
sulphate No. 2. Follow with same material later if plant lice appear 
The nicotine sulphate, without soap, may be added to the regular 
spray No. 1. ‘ 
eee 
growing one year wood and opening up the tree to admit ample sun- 
light and air circulation, All suckers and water sprouts should be re- 
moved. Pruning wounds or mechanical injuries of over *%’*’ in diameter 
should he protected by painting with white lead and oil, or any good 
outside building paint or ‘‘tree’’ paint. Wounds smaller than this ordin- 
ari'y heal over before wood rot infection can take place. All cuts should 
be smooth, clean and as close as possible to the main branch or trunk 
from which the branch being removed originates. 
