Page 25 


THE DANIELS NURSERY 

DANIELS CERTIFIED RASPBERRIES 
Minnesota grown raspberry plants are conceded the 
country over to be the acme in raspberry plants. 
For over twenty years we have 
We were pioneers 
We have this year a very fine stock of 
and Chief with well matured canes and 
roots—double inspected and _ certified 
of any less quality than the splendid, 
honestly graded and carefully handled raspberry plants 
which we offer this spring. 

DANNY SAYS: 
plant 
rubbish! Put it 
where it be- 
longs. There is a 
everything and 
Don’t 

for 
everything should be in its 
place 
place. Put Daniels Certified 
Mosaic Free Raspberries in 
your garden soil and throw 
diseased plants in the rubbish 
can. 

A yigorous grower and heavy yielder of 
of the highest quality. Has stood the test of time. Most wide- 
ly planted of all black raspberries. We offer strong two year 
transplants at $1.25 for 12; $2.00 for 25; $5.00 for 100. 
been 
superior grade of raspberry plant here in Minnesota. 
in introducing to our retail trade 
both Chief and Latham—two varieties which are out- 
standing throughout the country as leaders 
respective classes—the early and the late. 
by our 
Department of Agriculture to be free from 
The thoughtful planter will not be satisfied with plants 
growing a 
in their 
both Latham \ 
very strong 
State 
disease. 
well grown, 

Prices on Latham & Chief 2, DB 100 1000 
Planters Grade $0.50 $0.75 $1.95 $15.00 
Nose yee gt ee ees 75 .90 2.75 22.50 
EX trae oe leet gee 2) ees et 1.00 1.75 4.15 29.50 
LATHAM — The Country’s Greatest Late Red 
This is the finest and most profitable of all late Red Raspberries. Because of its 
marked superiority it is replacing all older late varieties throughout the Hast aa 
well as in the Middle West. 
Latham is a strong grower with powerful, vigorous canes, well able to support 
fits enormous loads of berries. It has proven hardy throughout the Northwest with- 
out winter protection. The berries are famous for their large size. Professor W. H. 
Alderman describes them as ‘‘frequently an inch in diameter.’’ 
{ CHIEF — The Country's Greatest Early Red 
During the exceedingly trying weather during the past 
through in better condition and neld up better than 
It seems to be the ideal raspberry — 
taspberry plant. 
few seasons Chief has come 
any other commonly grown 
the berry of unsurpassed 
merit for both the home and commercial grower. Because of its earliness it bring 
the highest prices on the market for 
““Black Caps.’’ 
large, juicy berries 
the 
rardener brings the first and therefore the 
CUMBERLAND BLACK RASPBERRIES 
Generally conceded to be the best of the 
commercial grower, and for the home 
most prized berries for the table. 
ANCIENT BRITON BLACKBERRY 
The extreme popularity of this splendid blackberry is well 
deserved for it is not only the hardiest of the better black- 
berries but it is the best in quality. Plants are vigorous and 
very productive. Probably the best for home anid commercial 
plantings in the North. : 
$1.25 for 12; 
$2.00 for 25; $5.00 for 100. 
How To Grow Small Fruits 
STRAWBERRIES 
The ‘‘narrow mat’’ row system of cul- 
ture is generally best for strawberries. 
The plants are allowed to form a mat of 
runners not to exceed 18 to 24 inches in 
width, and runners which grow out be- 
yond that should be cut off and treated 
as weeds. 
Strawberries should be set only in the 
spring, preferably late April or early 
May. The soil should be rich, fertile and 
thoroughly worked. Plants should be set 
at exactly the same depth as they grew 
previously, i.e. with the ground line at 
the center of the crown. All blossoms 
should be removed from June _ bearing 
varieties the first year, and from ever- 
bearing varieties until about the 10th of 
July. The everbearers will then start 
fruiting in early August and continue un- 
til the frost stops them in late fall. As 
the first runners develop they should be 
spaced evenly and encouraged to root. A 
minimum spacing of from 5 in. to 6 in. 
between runner plants usually gives the 
best results. Strawberries should be 
thoroughly hoed and cultivated until late 
fall. Just before severe ground freezing 
occurs they should be covered for the 
winter with between two and three in- 
ches of marsh hay, straw or other coarse 
mulching material. In the spring this 
mulch should be adjusted just before the 
new growth starts in the crowns, leaving 
over the plants whatever mulch the new 
leaves can push through, and leaving 
the balance in the aisle until the end of 
the spring picking. 
RASPBERRIES & BLACKBERRIES 
These may be planted either spring or 
fall. Set the plants one to two inches 
deeper than they grew in the nursery 
row and prune the top to a stub, not 
over four or six inches above the ground. 
In fall planting the stub should be en- 
tirely covered with a mound of dirt. The 
plants should be kept thoroughly culti- 
vated and weeded each year until the 
middle of August or the first of Septem- 
ber. Fertilize moderately with well rotted 
barnyard manure or any good, complete 
garden fertilizer in early spring. Late 
fall application is perhaps preferable if 
barnyard manure is used. 
Red Raspberries may be grown either 
in the hill or continuous row systems, 
while Black Raspberries and Blackberries 
should preferably be in a continuous row. 
In the hill system, the new shoots which 
come up from the ground each year are 
restricted to a small group around the 
original plant. A stake or other suitable 
support should be placed in the center of 
each hill and the canes tied securely to 
this before new growth starts each year. 
In the continuous row system the plants 
are confined to a narrow continuous row 
preferably supported by a series of single 
or double wires attached to a row of 
posts down the center, 
These fruits are borne on the current 
year’s lateral shoots which grow out from 
canes of the previous season’s growth. 
Each fall or spring before growth starts 
all the canes which fruited the preceding 
summer should be cut off at the ground 
line and burned. The remaining (one 
year old) canes should be ‘‘headed back’’ 
to a height suitable to the supporting 
system (usually from 4 to 5 feet) and 
any weak or surplus canes should be cut 
off at the ground. 
Fach fall it is advisable to bend down 
Black Raspberries and Blackberries to 
the ground and cover them with soil for 
winter protection. 
CURRANTS & GOOSEBERRIES 
These may be planted either spring or 
fall. In fall planting mound ‘dirt over the 
stems. Set the plants a trifle deeper than 
they grew in the nursery row. Prune to 
short stubs of a few inches each at plant- 
ing time. They should be well hoed and 
cultivated until the middle of August. 
Fertilizing should be practiced the same 
as in Raspberries. 
Two pests may require spraying, The 
currant worm, which eats the foliage in 
May and should be controlled by spray- 
ing with Arsenate of Lead; and the plant 
louse or aphid which sometimes works on 
the currants. Spray for these with Nico- 
tine Sulphate. (See page 20 for strength 
of spray materials to be used.) 
Pruning is especially important. for 
these fruits. The best berries are. pro- 
duced on strong one year wood amd short 
spurs of one, two and, three years of age. 
All wood older ‘then this should be remo- 
ed at the base and only three or four 
strong basal shoots allowed to remain 
after each annual pruning. Strong one 
year wood should be cut back from one- 
fifth to one-third. If this pruning pro- 
gram is followed closely the fruit produc- 
tion will be greater, the berries larger, 
and the picking much easier than if they 
are allowed to grow in neglect. 
