and train vines in different di- 
rections. Cultivate as long as 
possible. On moist ground use 
shingles to hold melons off 
ground to prevent rotting. 
OKRA or GUMBO. Do not 
plant until ground is warm, as 
this is a tender, hot weather 
plant. Pick pods before they 
develop woody fibres. 
ONION SETS. Onion sets used 
instead of seeds will produce 
earlier crops of green onions 
or large bulbs. Plant sets right 
side up and cover with garden 
rake; then firm the soil well 
over the sets. 
ONION. Plant as soon as soil 
can be prepared. For best yield, 
plant on very fertile land—fall 
plowed, and thoroughly ferti- 
lized. When plants are a few 
inches tall, thin to prevent 
crowding—using the plants re- 
moved as green onions. Those 
left to become fully ripe can 
be stored for winter. Cultivate 
and handweed crop every 2 
weeks during summer, 
‘PARSLEY. Does best in rich, 
mellow loam. Seed is slow to 
germinate, and is helped by 
soaking in warm water over 
night before planting. Sow 
early and not too deeply. When 
curled varieties are about 8” 
tall, cut off all leaves. The new 
growth will be brighter and 
better curled. 
PARSNIP. Plant in rich, sandy 
loam, thoroughly pulverized. 
Seed requires plenty of mois- 
ture for germination and should 
be sown early. Dig after a kill- 
ing frost. Freezing improves 
Parsnips, so some can be left in 
the ground all winter and used 
in spring. For storage, bury in 
dry sand, 
PEAS. For early crop, plant in 
light, rich soil. For general 
crop, a rich loam or elay soil 
is best. Plant at 2-weeks in- 
tervals for continuous supply. 
Soak seeds in water the night 
before planting. Peas need mod- 
erate temperature, plenty of 
moisture. Light frosts do not 
injure them so they may be 
planted early in spring. Vari- 
eties more than 114’ tall should 
be staked when 4” to 6” tall. 
For increased yield, INOCU- 
LATE! Garden peas, like all 
legume crops, almost always 
benefit by inoculation. Quan- 
tity and quality of the crop are 
increased when the _ beneficial 
nitrogen-fixing bacteria are 
present in sufficient numbers. 
PEPPERS. Warm, mellow soil 
in sheltered location is best. 
Start under glass. Cultivate 
regularly, drawing soil up 
around stems. When plants are 
7” to 8” tall, hoe in light dress- 
ing of commercial fertilizer. Do 
not plant hot peppers near 
sweet; they are apt to cross. 
PUMPKIN. Cultivate practic- 
ally the same as melons or cu- 
cumbers. 
RADISH. Soil should be light, 
quick and rich to ensure rapid 
growth. Slow growth makes the 
flavor too strong. Sow as early 
as ground can be worked, as 
Radishes are very hardy. Make 
successive sowings up to hot 
weather. When in the third 
leaf, thin to 3” apart. Pull 
promptly when mature. The 
secret of crisp, delicious rad- 
ishes is quick growth and 
prompt picking. 
RHUBARB. Sow in cold frame 
in spring and transplant into 
rows as soon as plants are 
large enough. In fall or the 
following spring transplant to 
permanent location in rows 3’ 
to 5’ apart each way. Stalks 
should not be taken for use 
the first year, 
SPINACH. Plant very early in 
spring—or start seed in fall 
(giving it protection by 3” of 
straw over the winter) and en- 
joy an early spring crop. Cut 
all spinach before hot weather 
as it doesn’t do well in ex- 
treme heat. Sow again in Au- 
gust or September for fall crop. 
Spinach should be gathered be- 
fore the flower spike appears. 
SQUASH. Plant about same 
time as corn—and in hills. Does 
best in rich, sandy loam, and 
is helped by fertilizing the 
hills. When in the third leaf, 
thin to 4 plants per hill. Cover 
every fourth joint with earth 
to encourage extra root for- 
mation. Bush varieties may be 
planted in hills 3’ to 4’ apart. 
SWISS CHARD. Requires about 
same treatment as beets. Cul- 
tivate frequently. Leaves may 
be gathered during summer and 
fall. New ones will grow quickly. 
TOMATOES. Do best in sandy, 
well pulverized loam. Sow 
seed in hotbed or _ indoors. 
When plants are about 2” high, 
set out, 3” apart, in boxes or 
pots—later transplant into the 
garden. Or keep in flats until 
all danger of frost is past, and 
then set plants out directly into 
the garden. Water around the 
roots of the plants when set- 
ting them out, if ground is 
dry. Cultivate frequently until 
plants shade the ground. Re- 
move all but the two or three 
strongest branches, Study meth- 
ods of staking and training 
vines and adopt the one best 
suited to your situation. 
TURNIPS. For summer greens 
or roots, sow as early as rad- 
ishes and lettuce. Thin out 
when plants are 1” high. Sow 
again in summer for fall and 
winter use. Turnips do _ best 
when most of their growth is 
made in autumn or. early 
spring. Should be grown rap- 
idly for best flavor and texture. 
WATERMELON. Requires about 
same culture as Muskmelon, 
except the vines need more 
room. Fertilize each hill liber- 
ally and cultivate thoroughly. 
A dust mulch of fine soil on the surface 
helps hold the moisture in the soil below 
—but a crust over the soil is harmful 
and should be broken up. 
Watering 
While roots may be watered at any 
time, plants should be watered early 
morning or evening. Remember that 
one good soaking is better than many 
light sprinklings. 
Time of Planting 
Seasonal variations make it difficult to 
specify planting by date. In using plant- 
ing “calendars” it is well to make allow- 
ances for “late” or “early” seasons. 
Good general rules for the timing of 
vegetable planting are: 
When heavy frosts are over, plant early 
peas, onion sets and seed, kale, lettuce 
and spinach. 
When frosts are about over plant 
radishes, parsnips, carrots, beets, late 
peas and early sweet corn, and set out 
cabbage, and cauliflower plants. 
When all frosts are over, plant string 
beans and late sweet corn, and set out 
early tomato plants from the indoor 
boxes. 
When soil is quite warm, plant cucum- 
bers, melons, squashes, lima beans and 
set out the rest of the plants. 
Trees, shrubs, vines and dormant roses 
should be set out as early as conditions 
will permit, before the leaf buds open. 
Gladiolus bulbs and Dahlias should 
not be planted until the soil is quite 
warm. 
Crop Succession 
It is preferable not to have a second 
planting of any one crop follow the first 
on the same soil. Where vegetables ma- 
ture early, they should be followed by 
later kinds. For example, follow early 
carrots by late beans or corn—or follow 
radishes with cabbage or tomatoes. 
Garden Sanitation 
Keeping the garden healthy is not only 
a matter of spraying and dusting. Of 
course, reliable and properly selected 
insecticides should be used whenever 
and wherever there is any evidence of 
insect pests. A quick, early attack on 
insects and plant diseases is simply good 
gardening sense. 
But garden sanitation also calls for 
keeping the garden clean. In fall, be 
sure to remove and burn all rubbish, 
thus destroying many insect eggs that 
would develop the following spring. 
Also combat plant diseases, wherever 
possible, by using the new disease-re- 
sistant strains of flowers and vegetables. 
and place in a warm room. As 
soon as seedlings appear, re- 
move toa sunny window. When 
Jarge enough to handle, trans- 
plant into other flats to stand 
2” apart in rows. Transplant 
outdoors when all danger of 
frost is past, or if for house 
decoration shift into larger pots. 
CULTURE VI 
Plants under this culture are 
purely conservatory or _ hot- 
house plants. Follow instruc- 
tions for preparation of seed- 
flat above and sow seeds pref- 
erably during spring months 
at depth indicated. Water thor- 
oughly with a fine spray, and 
place in warm room. As soon as 
seedlings appear, remove to 
sunny window. When large 
enough to handle, transplant 
into other flats to stand 2” 
apart. Later pot up in 2” or 
2%” pots and keep shifting into 
larger pots as needed. 
CULTURE VII 
May be sown in early summer 
in flats or coldframes at the 
depth indicated. Water thor- 
oughly with a fine spray. Al- 
though little additional watering 
will be necessary, care must be 
taken never to permit soil to 
become dry. Place in a warm 
room and as soon as seedlings 
appear remove to a sunny win- 
dow. When large enough to 
handle, transplant into other 
flats, spacing seedlings 2” to 
2%” either way. Later, when 
they begin to crowd, transplant 
them a second time. In fall, if 
well developed, they may be 
placed in their permanent loca- 
tions where they are to blos- 
som the following year, or left 
in the seed-beds for early 
spring transplanting. NOTE: 
Only a few varieties under this 
culture will produce flowers the 
first year, and all will benefit 
by winter mulch or protection 
at least the first season. Seed 
may be sown in the open, after 
danger of frost is past, in a 
seed-bed in which the top soil 
is finely pulverized and mixed 
with peat moss or humus. Se- 
lect a level location and raise 
seed-bed several inches above 
the rest of the garden to pre- 
vent seeds being washed out by 
heavy rains. When plants are 
sufficiently large, place them in 
their permanent locations. 
CULTURE VIII 
Best sown indoors in early 
spring directly into small pots. 
Till the pots with a mixture of 
good garden soil, composed of 
two parts soil and one part 
humus, to within a half inch 
of the edge of the pot. Firm 
the soil and place one or two 
seeds at the depth indicated. 
Take an ordinary seed-flat, fill 
with moist peat moss, and 
plunge the pots into this up 
to within a half inch of the 
edge. Water pots thoroughly. 
Place in a warm room and as 
soon as seedlings appear, re- 
move toa sunny window, gradu- 
ally exposing them to outside 
conditions. When all danger of 
frost is over remove from pots 
without destroying the root- 
ball and plant in their respec- 
tive places outdoors. If ad- 
vanced blooming is not desired, 
seeds may be sown outside as 
soon as warm weather sets in. 
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