The Hardiest Roses Ollainatle 
OUR ROSE BUSHES are grown under the most ideal 
conditions to be found anywhere in the “‘great outdoors.’’ 
The soil in our nurseries is composed of the ‘‘cream’’ of 
the mountains combined with the animal and vegetable 
decompositions of the plains for ages past. Soil moisture 
is supplied by a natural sub-irrigation which never fails. 
A long, sunny growing season tapering off to a fall of 
eradually lowering temperatures, ripens the plants ready 
for digging without the artificial drying process which is 
so devitalizing to rose plants. 
Our plants are all budded on a cutting Multiflora 
Japonica of our own selection which has proven hardier 
and more vigorous than any other strain in commerce 
and which produces a rugged fibrous root system prac- 
tically guaranteeing successful transplanting. We are 
experienced rose growers and are preceded by three 
generations of plant propagators. 
All those conditions of soil, climate, understock and 
human understanding, combined with direct producer- 
to-consumer service, reveal the secret of the success 
our customers have with our plants. We take this oppor- 
tunity of thanking our many friends for their spontane- 
ous expressions of satisfaction. 
TERMS OF SALE 
Cash must accompany orders, with certain exceptions as 
follows: A 25% deposit will hold an order until one 
month before shipping date, when full amount of money 
must be remitted. In the case of horticultural societies 
ordering for their members, 25% should accompany 
orders, balance due 30 days from date of invoice. 
We can make shipment at any time from about Oc- 
tober 15th to April 15th. Prices include delivery, except 
where noted otherwise. 

PLANTING ROSES 
PLANTING—If you are not quite ready to plant when the 
parcel arrives from the nursery, you must take care that the 
plants do not dry out meantime. Holes should be dug wide 
enough and deep enough to receive the root system without 
twisting or crowding. Plant just deep enough to cover the 
junction of root and stem with one inch of soil. Spread 
out the roots evenly, giving them a downward tendency, 
return the soil and tread down firmly. Firm planting 
is very important, as loose soil dries out quickly, when 
the plants will be slow to start and may even die. If: 
the ground has been previously dug and manured, manure 
at planting time will not be necessary, but if not, then 
the holes should be dug deep enough to receive a forkful of 
manure in the bottom, covered by an inch of soil to prevent 
the dormant roots coming in contact with it. Sometimes in 
spring, cold drying winds prevail after planting, which have 
a killing effect on newly planted roses, causing moisture to 
evaporate from the stems which is needed for the production 
of new growth. We have found that a good safeguard 
against just such conditions is to cover the newly set plants 
with sacks and soak with water twice daily; this will make 
dilatory plants start that would otherwise have died. 
PRUNING—As these remarks are primarily intended for 
the first year, we will content ourselves by just saying that, 
after planting, all strong branches should be cut to about 
two inches and the weak ones cut right out. 
WINTERING—We have found the best kind of winter 
protection is to hill up the plant with about six inches of 
soil. If the plants are in a bed, fill up the depressions made 
in hilling up with partly decayed manure well tramped 
down. When the ground is frozen, a covering of cornstalks 
or such like material may be given to help hold snow over 
the bed. Climbing roses should have their stems removed 
from their supports, laid on the ground and covered as 
above. In spring, roses thus covered must be uncovered 
before growth starts, but protecting material should be 
quickly available should severe frosts threaten. Wintering 
instructions are for the information of growers east of the 
Rocky Mountains and the colder parts of the United States. 
THE EDDIE NURSERIES 
Phone 3504. + MOUNT VERNON, WASHINGTON 
