sabia 
"Ss otf" 82 eS 
129 

SPRINGFIELD, N. J. 
P lanting Gel nda’ for dsulbs 
Bulb Time to Plant in Inches 
Calochortus November Ze 
Chionodoxa September—October 3 
Colchicum Early August 2 
Crocus August—September—October 3-4 
Eranthis August 3 
Erythronium September 3-4 
Fritillaria September 2-3 
Galanthus August 2 
Hyacinth September 6-7 
Iris (bulbous) September—October 3-4 
Leucojum - September—October 4-5 
Lilium auratum November—December 10-12 
Lilium batemannioe November 6 
Lilium candidum August—September 2-3 
Lilium canadense November 1 
Lilium chalcedonicum October—November 4 
Lilium elegans November 5 
Lilium hansoni November 6 
Lilium henryi November—December 10 
Lilium martagon October—November 4 
Lilium regale November 8 
Lilium speciosum November—December 10 
Lilium superbum November 5 
Lilium tenuifolium October—November + 
Lilium tigrinum November 9 
Muscari September—October 2-3 
Narcissus September 4-8 
Ornithogalum September 2-3 
Scilla September—October 2-3 
Tulip October—November 5-6 
Depth to Plant 
P runing of ‘SAY 
The fundamental principle of all pruning is to cut back any shrub 
just after its normal blooming season. This gives it a chance to 
produce new wood and new buds before the next blooming season. 
It is also necessary with most shrubs to encourage all shoots com- 
ing up from the base. Such new growth supplies the vigorous young 
wood, so prune old wood to the ground. 
There are a few exceptions to this rule, such as Lilac, Coralberry, 
Snowberry, Japanese Quince and Sorbaria, which produce good young 
shoots anywhere along the older branches. 
Pruning is injurious if improperly done. Branchlets and twigs should 
be cut with a sharp knife or pruning shears. Heavy branches may be 
removed with a pair of lopping shears, or a saw. Large wounds should 
be thoroughly covered with a good tree paint. Cut each branch or 
twig back to the next larger one so that no useless stub is left. 
Small branches or twigs should be cut just above a strong bud, if possible. 
Normally, excessive pruning when planting is unnecessary, if the 
shrubs have a good root system and the plants are fertilized and 
well cultivated after planting, but severe pruning is desirable with 
late spring planting after growth has commenced. 
Most shrubs need not be pruned back more than one-third. Such 
shrubs as Buddleia, Callicarpa, and Vitex will often die back part way 
at least when planted. They should be pruned to within 6 or 8 
inches of the ground. Heavy pruning at planting has one big advantage 
with shrubs that are inclined to be scraggly. It causes the development 
of a more compact specimen. 
Shrubs which are grown mainly for their winter twig effect should 
be pruned just before growth starts, by cutting out all wood over a 
year old each spring. Those that are grown mostly for their foliage 
effect may also be pruned in the spring, except for the slow conservative 
growers, and they need only an occasional thinning out of the very 
old poorly placed branches. 
Shrubs with ornamental fruits, as well as flowers, should not be 
pruned until the fruit has withered or gone, and then cut but spar- 
ingly, to preserve the following year’s crop of flowers and fruits. 
Rejuvenating Ol Shs 
Old shrubs which have not been pruned for a number of years may 
be completely pruned at one time, but will be unattractive for a sea- 
son or two. It is advisable to cut about one-third of the oldest branches 
to the ground each season. In this way the shrub can be completely 
rejuvenated in a few years’ time without any severe hardship to the 
shrub or to the landscape effect. 
