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<j, / ° f 2 R Some Simple but Important 
ace odes Requisites for Success 
Rose culture is an easy matter, with scarcely a chance of failure if a few simple requirements are complied with. No subject responds more generously to 
good treatment. Obviously the first essential is to obtain good, strong, low-budded, field-grown plants of select varieties, since a wrong beginning in this re- 
spect can be corrected only by starting anew, with loss of time, labor, money and enjoyment. 
Care of plants upon arrival: As soon as you receive the plants remove the various materials 
in which they are packed for shipment, excepting, however, the damp sphagnum moss about the 
roots. This should be left on until the plants are ready for placing in their final growing quarters. 
If you live in a locality where the ground does not freeze, as for example certain portions of the 
Southern States or the lower latitudes of the Pacific Slope, the moss should be removed at once 
and the plants placed in the bed where they are to grow. 
In the more northerly sections, where the ground is frozen and- planting out impracticable, re- 
move, as above all the packing except the moss around the roots and bury the plants to the tops in 
a cold frame. If a cold frame is not available, the dirt floor of an outbuilding, such as a shed or 
cool cellar, will answer. In any instance cover the plants completely with soil. Select a position 
where there is plenty of light, but not direct sunlight and no artificial heat whatever. As soon as 
Spring breaks and it is possible to work the soil, plant them out in the garden. If the plants are 
to be buried, as suggested in the preceding paragraphs, it is advisable to wrap them in a piece of 
ordinary window screen, to guard against the attacks of mice, etc. 
Location of beds: Roses give the best results in fully exposed, sunny situations where free cir- 
culation of air is assured, and if possible, well removed from any buildings. It is inadvisable to 
plant them in even partial shade, as lack of sunlight induces leaf mildew in dull weather. 
Soil: Much has been said regarding the soil best adapted to Roses, but our experience has been 
that they do well in almost any good, rich land with a strong preference for soils of a heavy nature. 
Preparation for planting: Given that a suitable piot has been selected, we now come to the 
main essentials to success. : 
The soil should be trenched or spaded to a depth of not less than 18 inches, breaking all lumps, 
removing all stones, etc. This operation complete, spread over it three or four inches of rotted 
manure. Spade in, and when thoroughly incorporated, rake the bed to final grade. 
Measure the distance apart plants are to be set, allowing two and one-half or three feet between 
them. At each designated point dig a hole 12 inches wide by 2 feet deep; place in the bottom 8 i 
inches of well-rotted manure, preferably cow manure, if obtainable. Tread this firmly. On top of 
this put 6 inches of well prepared soil containing no manure whatever. Tread again to firm the layer 
of soil on manure. The remaining portion of the unfilled hole will now be ready to receive the plant. 
If the Roses are in a dormant or bare-root con dition, place them in the holes and carefully 
spread out the roots in as nearly natural position as possible, gradually filling in with fresh soil 
containing no manure. When the hole is completely filled, tread the soil around the plant as firm- 
ly as possible. Make a basin immediately surrounding the plant and water thoroughly. 
Depth of planting: The accompanying illustration shows a fair sample of one of our strong 2- 
year-old budded Rose bushes. B denotes the point of insertion of the bud in the original wild stock. 
4A, the depth that the plant should be set in the soil. C indicates the splendid root action to be 
noted in the class of Roses which we send out. The point A is about 3 inches. above point B. : 
Point A is the proper height the soil should reach when the plant is finally set. 
Watering: With the exception of an occasional syringing to clean the foliage of dust, Roses 
should have little or no water overhead. Irrigation either by means of shallow trenches running 
along the rows or. by an individual basin around each plant are the best methods. This puts 
the water where it belongs . . . at the roots. 
In sections where there is small rainfall the plants should be kept moist during their entire 
growing season. . After each watering a liberal but shallow cultivation of the soil will prove highly 
beneficial and will tend to retain the moisture in the ground. 
It is almost impossible to make any hard-and-fast rule in regard to the freauency of watering, as 
at times the heat and consequent evaporation is greater than at others. The principal thing to take 
note of is to see that the soil is continually moist during the flowering or growing period. A mulch of 
well-rotted manure, 2 or 3 inches deep over the entire surface of the bed, will help check evapora- 
tion, saving water. 
Pruning: The principal pruning should be done either just after the plants have finished Sum- j 
mer growth—say in the months of November or December, or in very cold sections just before the 
sap begins to rise in the Spring. 
It is difficult to give the exact method of pruning, but it might be summed up as follows: 
Remove all small twiggy growth, pruning back to strong, well-ripened canes See 
which are well furnished with healthy, big dormant eyes. As a general thing, 
the entire top of the plant should be removed. The engraving shows a properly 
pruned Hybrid-Tea, a 2-year-old plant. As the plant ages it naturally will sup- 
port more canes and should be pruned accordingly. Very drastic pruning is 
advised for exhibition blooms only. 
Insects and Diseases: Roses are affected with various fungus diseases, pests, 
etc. But we will only treat of those which are most generally prevalent and give 
the most trouble. These are principally aphis or greenfly, mildew and black 
spot. For their control we have found nothing to equal the new preparation 
“Tri-Ogen.”” This preparation has a distinct advantage of exercising a complete 
control over nearly all of the diseases that manifest themselves in roses, par- 
ticularly those referred to above. Spraying your roses with Tri-Ogen every two 
weeks will eliminate 99% of your rose growing troubles for it acts not only as 
a complete fungicide but also as an insecticide and is harmless to the plants 
themselves when used according to directions. 
A WORD TO OUR CUSTOMERS (4) Parcel Post Shipments—we advise forwarding all small orders and 
packages up to 20 pounds in weight by parcel post. 
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(1) Order early—we often sell out on certain items early in the season. (5) We pack all orders free. 
(2) Forwarding of orders—all flower seeds are postpaid at our ex- (6) Remittances may be made by check, postal money order, or ex- 
pense. On plants, roots, and bulbs the purchaser pays all trans- press money order. ; 
portation charges. Unless otherwise requested, we will ship the (7) No shipments will be sent C.O.D. 
cheapest way. (8) Non-warranty—we give no warranty express or implied of the 
productiveness, growth, or any other matters of similar nature of 
the plants, bulbs, and seeds we send out and will in no way be 
responsible for the crop. 
(3) We deliver all orders free of transportation charges in the 
metropolitan area of Los Angeles. 
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