SUGGESTIONS 
for growing Boysenberries 
The best time to set out the plants is Janu- 
ary, February and March in California, and 
as early in the spring as the land can be 
worked in the colder sections. Most seasons 
February is the ideal time in California. With 
irrigation the rows may be spaced six feet 
apart and the plants set six feet apart in the 
rows. Without irrigation we believe that 
eight-foot spacing each way will be better. 
Do not crowd them, for they make big vines. 
This is a very exceptional berry, for even 
though it produces an enormous crop still 
the berries are very large, and by very large 
we mean BIG; bigger, we are sure, than any- 
thing you have grown or seen before. But 
in order to cet both very large berries and a 
big crop there must be something put in the 
ground to produce them, so keep them well 
fertilized and be surprised and happy with 
the results. 

Do you pay to have the weeds cut off your 
vacant lots? Plant ’em to berries 
and they’ll bring you an income. 

This backyard berry garden (only 30x100 feet) pro- 
duced berries for the family and $245.00 were sold. 

After your plants have started to grow well, 
if manure is available, it will be a great help 
if you will scatter 10 or 15 pounds of chicken 
manure or 20 or 25 pounds of barnyard 
manure per plant between the rows and 
work it into the ground. If manure is not 
easily available about one pound per plant 
of fishmeal, bloodmeal, tankage, or mixed 
fertilizer scattered or drilled in, about a foot 
from the plants after they have started to 
grow, will make them grow big, strong vines 
the first year. You should strive to get a 
heavy vine the first summer in order to sup- 
port a maximum crop the next season. 
nd Finest of all the Berries! 
ore 

A Money Maker for the Northwest 
Then in early spring another application 
of fertilizer about as suggested above should 
be given. This is for the fruit. 
If to ke grown in an irrigated country they 
should ke well watered during spring and 
summer while the crop is developing and 
being harvested. 
The first season the vines can be left on 
the ground, and as the canes grow, they can 
be pushed back in line with the rows so 
that cultivation can continue. In the colder 
section of the midwest and east some grow-~ ~~ 
ers report they have found it beneficial to 
mulch the canes through the winter. It is 
important to put a little of the mulching ma- 
terial under the vines, to keep them from 
getting imbedded in the mud when freezing 
and thawing starts in the spring, as well as 
covering them. Corn stalks, straw or leaves 
seem to make satisfactory mulch material. 
Some growers have reported their plants 
uninjured after temperatures as low as 20 
degrees below zero, even though they were 
not mulched. 
In the spring as soon as the leaf buds begin 
to open, the vines should be put on trellis. 
We use two wires, one about two feet from 
the ground, the other four feet. No. 13 wire 
is good. The vines are wrapped around these 
wires in loose spirals (see picture on other 
side of the folder). 
When the crop is all picked, the old canes 
that have borne fruit should be cut off the 
trellis and back to the ground and burned. 
By that time the new canes, which are your 
fruit wood for the next season, will be sev- 
eral feet long, and these new canes are al- 
lowed to grow on the ground until the fol- 
lowing spring and are then put up on the 
trellis at the end of the dormant season as 
before. 
