NARCISSUS — DAFFODILS — JONQUILS 
The terms “Narcissus” and “Daffodils” are interchangeable; there exists a tendency to 
apply the name “Daffodil” to the varieties in which the trumpet or crown is as large or 
larger than the petals (perianth); while the name “Narcissus” is usually used for the vari- 
eties having small cups or crowns. Jonquils are also a type of Narcissus; they usually bear 
their flowers in clusters and have rush-like foliage. Many of the Jonquil Hybrids have 
only the single flower and ordinary foliage. The name “Narcissus” is correct for any or all 
of the different types. 
A Few Suggestions for Growing Daffodils 
They will thrive in any well drained garden soil. Prepare the soil deeply, 12 inches 
or more is best. Plant at least 6 inches deep, extra large bulbs are better planted 7 or 8 
inches deep. (Some varieties make larger bulbs than others.) No manure should come in 
contact with the bulb. If the soil needs fertility, use bone meal at the rate of one-fifth 
pound to the square yard. This should be thoroughly mixed with the soil under the bulb. 
A mulch of straw or leaves will be beneficial in very severe climates. If the mulch is 
applied after the first freeze, it will prevent thawing and heaving. 
DIGGING—Daffodils are best dug and separated every two or three years in the 
garden; when used for naturalizing in grass or wooded places they may be left undisturbed 
for years. Bulbs should be dug when the foliage turns yellow and lays flat on the ground, 
it need not be completely dry. After digging they may be planted at once or spread out to 
dry in a cool ventilated place and planted anytime until fall. Never dig in the fall, to do 
so ay cause them to skip one year’s bloom, should they bloom flowers will be few and 
small. 
INDOOR CULTURE 
Pot the bulbs as soon as received in a good loam soil. Some sand and peat moss 
mixed with the soil will be beneficial, also a small amount of bone flour; about two 
pounds to a bushel of soil. Bulbs should be potted shallow, tops of bulbs being about level 
with the top of pot. 
Old pots should be washed thoroughly, new ones should be soaked. Place a few pieces 
of charcoal or fragments of broken pots over drainage hole. A little ground peat in the 
bottom regulates drainage and retains moisture. 
Bury the pots outside under six inches of soil or ashes, water well. In 10 to 12 weeks 
move to the cellar, or any cool dark place for about two weeks. For a succession of bloom 
bring pots in at weekly intervals, bringing in the earlier varieties first. 
Tops should now be several inches above the soil and buds showing. Pots may now be 
brought inside to a temperature of 50 to 60 degrees. Later when the flower buds are 
well advanced the temperature may be increased to not over 65. To put where the heat is 
greater may cause the buds to come “blind.” A little liquid manure once a week will 
hasten the blooming, and improve the quality. 
TULIP CULTURE 
Best results are to be had by using soil that Tulips have not been grown in for at least 
two years. Growing more than two years in the same soil will eventually lead to failure. 
Do not use manure, if the soil needs fertility, mix bone meal with it at the rate of about 
three handfuls to the square yard. Plant 5 inches deep and at least 6 inches apart. In 
very severe climates a mulch of peat moss or leaves will be beneficial. This should be 
applied after the first freeze, and should not be over one inch deep. 
Tulips should be dug and reset each year. Dig when the foliage starts to yellow, it 
need not be completely dry. Store in a cool, dark place, in shallow trays, until fall. 
INDOOR CULTURE—Follow directions for Daffodils, making sure that the flower 
bud can be felt in the green tips before bringing the pots into a temperature of about 60. 
If in doubt, wait a little longer. 
BETTER BULBS CANNOT BE PURCHASED AT ANY PRICE 
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