iz EDWARD LEHDE NURSERIES, GARDENVILLE, N. Y. 

« The Planting and Care of Roses + 
WHEN TO PLANT 
Fall planting of Roses is often recommended as 
best, but many prefer early Spring planting. Fall 
planting is definitely better than delayed Spring 
planting. Drainage conditions may be the decisive 
factor in determining whether to plant in Spring or 
Fall. If drainage conditions are good, Fall planted 
Roses come through in better shape than those 
planted in Spring. If drainage is poor, the Fall 
planted bushes may be damaged by heaving re- 
sulting from alternate freezing and thawing of the 
soil, or by the absorption of an excessive amount 
of soil water. 
WHAT TO PLANT 
The proper choice of Rose bushes is important. 
This does not mean so much the choice of varieties 
as that of selecting well-grown, sturdy stock. A 
rose garden planted with cheap, inferior bushes 
is usually not satisfactory. Plants ought to be ob- 
tained from reputable dealers who handle northern 
grown stock and who give them the proper hand- 
ling and care before the customer receives them. 
By all means avoid the mail order “bargains.” 
WHERE TO PLANT 
Select the spot for your Rose garden where the 
sun shines for at least half a day; out in the open 
where there is little chance of large trees or bushes 
robbing the soil of its nourishment. Avoid low 
spots, where the water stands for any length of 
time after a rain. Plant Roses where they will have 
their own room and never among other plants. 
CARE AFTER PLANTING 
Cultivation—Cultivate the top inch or two of the 
soil on the Rose bed each week and water thor- 
oughly if the weather is dry. Much of this labor 
of cultivation can be eliminated if the beds are 
covered with a 2-inch mulch of grass clippings, 
peat moss, or strawy well-rotted stable manure 
about June lst. A trowel full of bonemeal, another 
of sheep manure or a small handful of Vigoro 
worked about each plant twice each season will 
produce a healthy, profuse blooming plant. 
Yearly Pruning—The same general pruning re- 
quirements hold for every type of Rose bush. The 
first step in the Spring is to clean the base of the 
plant, removing all suckers, dead wood, and weak 
growth. Then remove the old wood which has 
bloomed for 2 years or more. It is easily recognized 
by the dark color and its general appearance. 
Hybrid Teas —The second step, shortening the 
branches, requires a little more care and thought. 
The Hybrid Teas should be pruned according to the 
type of bloom desired. For average pruning, re- 
move about three-fourths of the previous year’s 
growth. For exceptionally fine individual blossoms, 
prune even lower. 
Baby Ramblers—The base of the plant should be 
cleaned of weak growth and the spent flower heads 
should be removed before going to seed, if you 
desire continuous bloom all Summer. 
Climbers keep growing from near the top of the 
old canes. Therefore, cut out only dead wood, and 
such branches as tend to spoil the shape of the 
bush. Leading Climbers are such as Paul's Scarlet, 
Dr. W. Van Fleet, and Primrose. 
Winter Protection—If the Winters are severe, the 
Hybrid Teas should be protected in the Winter by 
hilling up the earth about the stems in the Autumn, 
and after the ground is frozen protect it from alter- 
nate thawing and freezing by covering the entire 
mound with leaves or evergreen boughs. 
HOW TO PLANT 
The beds should be prepared two weeks or more 
in advance to allow for settling of the ground. Dig 
to a depth of about 16 inches and incorporate 
humus, either in the form of well-rotted manure or 
peat moss. As the former is often somewhat diffi- 
cult to obtain, peat moss is being used more and 
more. The addition of peat to soil for outdoor gar- 
den Roses always has given good results, regard- 
less of the proportion used. Despite the fact that 
Roses are supposed to respond best in heavy clay 
soils, improved growth in flower production, as 
much as 100 per cent, has been obtained by the 
addition of peat. It is possible to double the growth 
and flower production of Roses by watering during 
hot weather. Avoid wetting foliage, if possible, in 
order to eliminate troubles from mildew and black- 
spot. 
Roses should be planted as soon as they are re- 
ceived. If this is not possible, bury the roots in a 
shallow trench and cover tops with straw or bur- 
lap. Set the plant in the hole, spreading out the 
roots carefully and cover with good soil, and firm 
thoroughly. Roses will not thrive and grow if the 
soil is not thoroughly firmed about the plants. If 
the ground is very dry, fill the hole with water 
when it is about two-thirds full of dirt, and allow 
this to settle before throwing back the rest of the 
dirt. Plant deep enough so that the union of bud 
and stock is 1 inch beneath the surface. Mound 
the soil around the Rose bushes when planting in 
the Spring, and remove in two or three weeks after 
the growth has started. This prevents the Rose 
from drying out by sun and wind before the roots 
have become established. This is done again in 
the Fall for Winter protection and removed about 
the 10th of April. Plant the Roses 16 to 18 inches 
apart, according to size. This distance is sufficient 
for most of the Hybrid Teas and Baby Ramblers, 
though a few of the more vigorous Hybrid Teas 
may be planted 1'%2 to 2 feet apart. Hybrid Per- 
petuals should be planted 2 feet apart each way, 
the Climbers about 6 feet apart if planted in rows. 
Climbing Roses are planted in the same way as 
the bush kinds, but at a greater distance apart. 
Pruning of the broken and dried branches should 
be done when planting. Protect the canes from 
wind and sun until root action has started by 
wrapping with burlap or straw or by laying down 
the canes and covering lightly with soil. Estab- 
lished plants need only be pruned to keep them 
within bounds; this should be done after blooming 
or during the Winter. 
SPRAYING AND DUSTING 
Powdered sulphur dusted on the plants once 
every two weeks will control mildew. A frequent 
spraying of the plants with Black Leaf 40 will kill 
plant lice or aphis which are a common Rose pest. 
A thorough dusting of Roses with a mixture made 
up of one part lead arsenate, one part tobacco 
dust, and nine parts dusting sulphur is a fine pre- 
ventive as well as a cure for most all Rose diseases. 
