A EDWARD LEHDE NURSERIES, GARDENVILLE, N. Y. 

Hardy Herbaceous Perennials 
Perennials are herbaceous flowering plants that come up year after year with renewed vigor and 
size from the original root stock, though the tops die down each fall. 
USES OF PERENNIALS 
The mainstay of the flower garden is perennials. 
They are first in spring, last in fall, and the right 
combinations will give a wealth of bloom between 
these seasons. 
Perennials may be used in many ways: in special 
beds of their own, in combination with shrubs, in 
beds in front of shrubs, as a border for walks and 
drives. When the yard is too small for many 
shrubs, the taller growing perennials will give a 
shrubby effect as well as flowers. 
Perennials should be supplemented by the sum- 
mer-blooming annuals, for many perennials bloom 
in the spring or early summer and then go into a 
semi-dormant stage. At this time they should be 
partially trimmed to insure a good growth in the 
fall. 
ARRANGEMENT OF PERENNIALS 
If they are planted in a very wide bed, eight to 
ten feet wide, perennials do not need a background. 
Otherwise, a background of foliage or a fence, in 
contrast to the gay flower colors, should be pro- 
vided. In informal planting, beds in front of the 
shrub border are not only pleasing and effective, 
but are also easy to care for. These beds should 
be as wide as space permits and in proportion to 
the rest of the property. A perennial border can be 
worked out in a minimum of three feet, while five 
to seven feet gives better opportunity for proper 
arrangement. 
Ultimate height, and color harmony or contrast 
should be considered when perennial beds are 
planted. It is not necessary to adhere rigidly to the 
tule of tall plants in the background, low-growing 
kinds in front, and those of medium height worked 
in between these two; a little variation is more 
interesting. But there is little pleasure derived from 
a beautiful clump of flowers completely hidden by 
some taller plants in front of them. 
Grouping by color is more difficult to do well, 
but one simple rule will do much to help you. 
Plants should be used in masses of 3 to 10 of one 
kind. In this way good color effects as well as 
more pleasing foliage effects may be obtained. 
Little dabs of color here and there give the same 
effect as a small print of a piece of cloth; there is 
nothing definite. Mass effects of color are impres- 
sive and offer good contrast. 
It is possible to make the garden appear larger 
by proper placing of colors. blue and lavender 
shades seem further away than they actually are 
and when planted in the background, give the illu- 
sion of distance. Red and pink shades tend to 
shorten the distance. 
PLANTING AND CARE OF PERENNIALS 
Time of Planting: The most successful hardy 
gardens are those which are planted in very early 
spring or early fall. The ideal time to plant the 
early blooming perennials is in the latter part of 
August or early September. The plants can estab- 
lish proper root growth before winier and will be 
ready for early spring growth. All perennials may 
be planted in the spring, but the early blooming 
ones should be planted as soon as possible. If the 
ground is prepared in the fall, earlier spring plant- 
ing is possible. The summer and fall blooming 
varieties may be planted later. 
Preparation of the Beds: In preparing the soil 
for the border, one of the best soil conditioners 
which can be used is peat moss. It is good for all 
types of soil, making heavy soils more friable and 
easy to work, and giving light sandy soil more 
body. Since peat moss can absorb many times its 
weight of water, it helps keep moisture in the soil 
until the plants need it. Both peat moss and manure 
add humus to the soil, and although peat does not 
have the fertilizing value of manure, it does not rot 
away as manure does. You cannot put too much 
peat moss in the soil; the more that is added, the 
more the soil is improved. The ground should be 
well spaded to the depth of at least 12 inches. 
In addition to the peat moss, a little commercial : 
fertilizer, such as Vigoro, added in the spring will 
give the necessary food to the plants. These com- 
mercial fertilizers are quick-acting and should 
never be used in excess of the manufacturer's 
recommendation. 
Drainage: Most perennials require good drain- 
age. This may be had by selecting the best drained 
portion of the garden, by laying tile, or by raising 
the beds a little above the level of the lawn. Losses 
over winter are often due to the lack of adequate 
drainage. There are a few perennials that tolerate 
or thrive well in moist ground. Some are listed at 
the end of this article. 
Location: Most perennials will thrive better in 
full sun. There are some, however, that are tolerant 
of, or prefer, partial shade. A list of these may be 
found at the end of this article. 
Watering: It is most important to keep the plants 
well watered the first few days after they are 
planted. 
Summer Care and Transplanting: Since much of 
the strength of the plant goes into seed production, 
old flower stalks should be cut before they go to 
seed. Doing this, plus partially trimming the semi- 
dormant plants will give better fall growth. 
There are some perennials which spread quickly 
and try to take possession of the garden. These 
must be divided after a year or so and replanted 
in smaller clumps. Among this group are: Anthemis, 
Cerastium, Sedum, Physostegia, Chinese Lantern, 
Iris, and Achillea. Others are slower growing and 
may stand 3 or 4 years before being divided. These 
include: Anemone, Columbine, Delphinium, Geum, 
Heuchera, Phlox, Peonies, Pyrethrum, Primula, Tha- 
lictrum, Tritoma, and Helenium. A few perennials 
such as Dictamnus, Platycodon, Statice latifolia, 
Baby's Breath, Helleborus, Baptisia, Lupine, and 
Dele! Weed grow better if they are not moved 
at all. 
Winter Care: Most perennials should be covered 
lightly for the winter, and for their first winter, all 
ALL PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE 
