Mundy’s Dahlia Gardens Coldwater, Michigan 

DAHLIA CULTURE 
SOIL — Dahlias will grow in any soil provided there are sufficient plant foods in 
the soil to supply the needs for proper growth. Many soils can be improved to 
grow better dahlias. A heavy soil or clay may be improved by the addition of 
sand and the use of quantities of rotted manure and peat. 
FERTILIZER — Before adding plant foods, have your soil tested to determine de- 
ficiences. Generally, 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet of a fertilizer analyzing 
4-12-4, or thereabouts, will meet most requirements, if the soil has already had 
organic material added to it. After the first of August, when the plants are be- 
ginning to show flower buds, “feeding” with small amounts of nitrogenous fertil- 
izers, once or twice, will favor the development of larger flowers and more vigor- 
ous plants. 
DIVISION — Never plant a “clump” of roots. Divide the clump carefully into a 
number of parts so that each division will have one sound, healthy tuber, and 
one or two plump buds. 
PLANTING — For exhibition flowers, dahlias should be planted at least 3 feet apart 
each way. Dwarf varieties for bedding and varieties used for landscape effect 
may be planted closer. Dwarf singles, as Coltness Gem, should be planted 12 to 
14 inches apart for best bedding effects. Dig the holes at least 6 inches deep. 
Place the tuber horizontally in the bottom of the hole with the bud an inch or 
so from the stake. Cover the roots with about 2 to 3 inches of soil. As the 
plants grow the hole may be filled in by cultivating. 
STAKING — Five to six foot stakes will be required to support tail growing vari- 
eties. The stakes should be set in at the time of planting. If you wait until 
later to drive in the stakes, much damage may be done to the roots of the plants. 
PRUNING — Large-fiowered types and bedding types should have the tips of the 
plants cut out when they have reached a height of 8 to 12 inches. Cactus vari- 
eties are often permitted to grow until the first bud appears. These are then 
pinched out to encourage the growth of the laterals. For exhibition flowers, al- 
low only 3 or 4 branches to develop. Remove side buds and all laterals, except 
those at the bottom, from each of the branches. 
WATERING — If “green plants” are planted, water carefully for the first 2 weeks. 
Through July never allow the soil to dry out sufficiently to cause a checking of 
the growth. After the first of August and until early or mid-September, dahlias 
will require plenty of water. If the soil is well drained, there is not much dan- 
ger of overwatering. Throughout the summer on dry, hot days, the plants will 
be much benefited by a thorough syringing in the late afternoon. 
DIGGING — After the first heavy frost, the tops of the plants will blacken and 
dry. A few days to a week after a frost the tops should be cut off and the clumps 
dug up. They should be carefully dried off in the sun for several hours before 
being stored. 
STORAGE — Store the tubers in dry granulated peat in a cool place. The best 
storage temperature is about 45 degrees Fahrenheit. The storage atmosphere 
should be moist enough to prevent excess drying of the roots and at the same 
time not so moist as to encourage mold or storage rots. 
In the fall when your dahlias are blooming, enter some blooms in the Dahlia 
Show near you. You will have lots of pleasure and will learn much about dahlias 
at the exhibitions. 
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