The Cfladiolus 
FOR THE GARDEN AND FOR INDOOR DECORATION 
Gladiolus: “Diminutive of Latin gladius, a sword, from 
the shape of the leaves of the first described species.” 
Few flowers have so richly profited from the skill and taste of the hybridists’ continued ambitions as the Gladioli. 
Through variation, selection and breeding, the comparatively inconspicuous flowers brought from Cape Colony 
some hundred and fifty years ago, have been re-furbished, elaborated, glorified, until memory of their simple 
early state is quite lost in the wonder of newly acquired colors, markings, bewitching ruffles and widely flaring 
chalices. The color range of the Gladiolus of today includes every tint and shade possible. 
No blooms are more valuable in the midsummer and autumn garden than Gladioli. Their use is almost without 
limitation. The range of color available today enables them to share in any scheme. If the planting be properly 
timed they may be brought into bloom any time from June to November (and under glass, from November to 
June). The flowering season may be advanced or prolonged by planting in berry baskets or pans, keeping them 
in a protected frame until ready to set outdoors into the garden where a vacancy invites it. 
They are invaluable for cut flowers, and it is well to have a few hundred bulbs planted in some out-of-the-way 
place, for a cutting patch for indoor and porch decoration. It is interesting in this connection to choose varieties 
whose colors will harmonize with the decorations of the various rooms of your home. In cutting the blooms four 
or more leaves should always be left upon the plant; this helps to restore nourishment to the parent corms. 
Gladioli will give satisfactory results in any good garden soil. The depth of planting for the corms differs with 
the character of the soil. The lighter the soil, the deeper the corms should be set, and in dry seasons this deep 
planting is of great advantage, as it insures a cool and desirable environment for the roots. Deep planting has 
the further advantage of very largely doing away with the necessity of staking. In heavy, moist soils, however, there 
is danger in deep planting, as the soil may become too wet and cause the young shoots and even the corms to decay. 
The general method is to plant in rows from 11% to 4 feet apart, depending upon the method of cultivation to 
be employed. Dig a trench 5 inches deep and 2 inches wide at the bottom. Place the corms on the bottom of the 
trench 3 inches to 5 inches apart and then fill the trench with soil. 
They like plenty of air and sunshine under which condition they will grow to perfection. In dry seasons they 
should be thoroughly watered; a little sprinkling in the evening is of only slight benefit; give them a thorough 
soaking so that the soil is wet 5 inches deep and then leave them alone for a week. 
Cultivate after every rain or watering; keep the surface of the soil loose and open; give the oxygen a chance to 
get into the soil where things are growing. 
Do not use fresh manure at planting time. Apply barnyard manure the previous fall or use bone meal in the 
spring. Scheepers’ Bulb Food is best. 
Unpack the bulbs as soon as received and give them a thorough airing; keep in a good dry cellar until ready 
to plant. 
[4] 
