30 
RAMSEY’S AUSTIN NURSERY 

General Information 

Distances for Planting 
Peach, Plum, Apple, Pear, Apricot, 20 to 25 
feet apart each way. 
Pecan, 40 to 60 feet each way. 
Figs, 12 to 18 feet each way. 
Haupt, McDonald, 
31/2 by 6 feet. 
or 4 by 6 feet. 
Dewberry, 3 by 4 feet. 
and Dallas Blackberries, 
In rich land, 5 by 5 feet, 
Strawberry, 1 by 21/2 feet. 
Grapes, 12 by 18 feet. 
Number of Trees or Plants 
Per Acre 
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Se DY eked COU 10k Siok cua conecmerede etre cns 3,630 
Sec by SDT Leeb so. © seko rt sateen Ces 2,430 
AN? -Dy sh Gb feetee ic: tak amen Seen 1,815 
Be bys Wem eet ass a. te. tic see ereane seen 1,740 
1D bys U2 Peet a atypia ee cae ole cutee 302 
124 bys Sar feet tease ee ae See 201 
QOS Dyes 20ee Leet cee a a cutee an eae eee 108 
Tht Dyed. leet Nacsa revere ka cece eter 69 
30+ by, BOter fect oer kh aah rane 48 
40° Sby.2404 feetscets. suis. eens 27 
50ce bye b0si fect ste hie Haase he eel 7, 
60) “cby' «60 <afecbiii eyes tiki hehe 13 

Planting, Pruning, and Care 
of Trees 
If information in detail is not found in this cata-_ 
logue, any one may write us about any tree or plant 
problem. County and Home Demonstration Agents, 
to be found in most counties, are glad to give advice 
and assistance. The State Department of Agriculture, 
Austin, Texas, and the A. & M. College, College 
State, Texas, have bulletins available for free dis- 
tribution, covering nearly all agricultural and hor- 
ticultural subjects. 
Location of Orchard 
Orchards do best on high land, by escaping late 
frosts and having good drainage. Most fruit trees 
will die in a few years if planted in poorly drained 
soil. North and east slopes are desirable. Pears, figs, 
and berries are best fruits on low land. 
Ages of Bearing, After Planting 
Peach, Plum, Nectarine, 2 to 3 years. 
Pear and Apricot, 3 to 5 years. 
Apple, 3 to 4 years. 
Jujube, 2 to 3 years. 
Pecan, 3 to 6 years. 
Blackberry and Dewberry, second spring. 
Strawberry, first spring. 
Grape, 2 years. 
Figs, 1 and 2 years. 
Planting Bare-Rooted Trees and Plants 
When trees are received, they should be planted at 
once, or unpacked, set in a trench, roots covered with 
mellow earth and well watered. Trees will keep safely 
in bale several days if kept damp and out of sun and 
wind. If trees are frozen when received, bury entire 
bale under ground until weather moderates. 
For small number of trees, we recommend digging 
extra large holes, two or three feet square or more, 
and two feet deep. In larger orchard, ground should 
be well plowed and harrowed in advance. With a 
plow, check land for distance apart desired, 20 feet, 
or 20 by 25 feet, etc. Run several times in two or 
three furrows. Shovel out holes at checks, and a little 
more digging will give a good hole. The larger the 
better, but in such prepared land two feet wide and 
eighteen inches deep will answer. 
Tree or plant should be set about the same depth 
it stood in nursery or slightly deeper.’ Spread out 
roots, and cut bruised or broken roots. Pecan and 
shade trees should be set two or three inches deeper, 
and roses two inches deeper. 
Fill in with good top soil about level full. Next, 
give all the water the ground will take, then cover 
with dry soil and slightly tamp or pack. No matter 
how moist the soil, give some water to settle earth 
around roots. 
Planting B & B Stock 
DO NOT REMOVE OR LOOSEN SACK about ball 
of earth. Plant so that top of sack is below ground. 
Pruning at Time of Planting 
This is important. Fruit trees should be cut back 
to 15 to 24 inches above ground to give the roots less 
top to support and to make trees head out low near 
the ground, shading the bodies. In case of two- and 
three-year-old trees, if there are no good eyes or buds 
on main trunk, cut top off, leaving two or three 
branches, which should be cut back to three or four 
inches long. We will prune trees, ready for plant- 
ing, if requested. 
Shade trees should be cut back heavily. 'Ten-foot 
trees, to seven feet; twelve-foot trees, to eight or nine 
feet; others, in proportion. 
Flowering shrubs, cut back half. 
Ligustrums, one-third to one-half. 
See under PECANS, ROSES and BERRIES for 
details. 
Evergreens that are Balled and Burlapped need 
little, if any, pruning, unless extra large. 
Privets and 
Later Pruning 
As fruit trees grow, cut off sprouts coming from 
below ground or below bud or graft. When of bearing 
age, limbs that rub against others, or are weak or too 
thick, should be removed. Water sprouts that come 
from lower part of trunk and main branches, under 
the shade of the tops, should be cut off. Excessive 
growth inside of tops, shaded and crowded, is worth- 
less and a drain on trees. 
Pruning of old trees should be done in January and 
February. When limbs are removed, they should be 
cut smooth against main branch, leaving no projec- 
tion or spur. 
When fruit trees are ten to fifteen years old and 
begin to decline, tops can be dehorned by cutting 
them back fully half way. Good crops will result 
after first year. 
Large wounds made by pruning should be painted 
with ordinary house paint. 
Flowering shrubs should be cut back half way every 
winter, except early spring bloomers, such as Spirea, 
Japan Quince, etc., which should be pruned after 
blooming time. 
If old flowers of Crape Myrtle and other summer 
blooming plants are removed before seed is made, 
almost continual flowering will result. Otherwise, 
they will flower only once or twice. 
Evergreens can and should be pruned any time of 
the year, if growing too large or becoming ragged. 
Some pruning is necessary for Broad-Leaf Evergreens 
to keep them compact and in bounds. 
