September 5, 1918 
LAND &> WATER 
"You, too, should have a large army," said Enver, referring 
to the United States. 
"I do not believe," he went on, "that England is trying 
to force the Dardanelles because Russia has asked her to. 
When I was in England I discussed with Churchill the possi- 
bility of a general war. He asked me what Turkey would 
do in such a case, and said that, if we took Germany's side, 
the British Fleet would force the Dardanelles and capture 
Constantinople. Churchill is not trying to help Russia — he 
is carrying out the threat made to me at that time." 
Enver spoke with the utmost determination and convic- 
tion ; he s*id that nearly all the damage inflicted on the 
outside forts had been repaired, and that the Turks had 
methods of defence the existence of which the enemy little 
suspected. He showed great bitterness against the English ; 
he accused them of attempting to bribe Turkish officials, and 
even said that they had instigated attempts upon his own 
Ufe. On the other hand, he displayed no particular friendli- 
ness toward the Germans. Wangenheim's overbearing 
manners had caused him much irritation, and the Turks, 
he said, got on none too well with the German officers. 
"The Turks and Germans," he added, "care nothing for 
each other. We are with them because it is our interest 
to be with them ; they are with us because that is their 
interest. Germany will back Turkey just so long as that 
helps Germany ; Turkey will back Germany just so long as 
that helps Turkey." 
Enver seemed much impressed at the close of our inter- 
view with the intimate personal relations which we had 
established with each other. He apparently believed that 
he, the great Enver, the Napoleon of the Turkish Revolution, 
had unbended in discussing his nation's affairs with a mere 
Ambassador ; colossal vanity, as I have before remarked, 
was one of his strong points. 
"You know," he said, "that there is no one in Germany 
with whom the Emperor talks as intimately as I have talked 
with you to-day." 
We reached Panderma about two o'clock. Here Enver 
and his auto were put ashore, and our party started again. 
our boat arriving at Gallipoli late in the afternoon. We 
anchored in the harbour, and spent the night on board. 
All the evening we could hear the guns bombarding the 
fortifications ; but these reminders of war and death did not 
affect the spirits of my Turkish hosts. The occasion was 
for them a great lark ; they had spent several months in 
hard, exacting work, and now they behaved like boys sud- 
denly let out for a vacation. They made jokes, told stories, 
sang the queerest kinds of songs, and played childish pranks 
upon one another. The venerable Fuad, despite his nearly 
ninety years, developed great qualities as an entertainer, and 
the fact that his associates made him the butt of most of 
their horse-play apparently only added to his enjoyment 
of the occasion. The amusement reached its height when 
one of his friends surreptitiously poured him a glass of eau- 
de-Cologne. The old gentleman looked at the new drink 
a moment and then diluted it with water. I was told that 
the proper way of testing raki, the popular Turkish tipple, 
is by mixing it with water ; if it turns white under this 
treatment, it is the real thing, and may be safely drunk. 
Apparently water has the same effect upon eau-de-Cologne, 
for the contents of Fuad's glass, after this test, turned white. 
The old gentleman, therefore, poured the whole thing down 
his throat with a grimace — much to the hilarious entertain- 
ment of his tormentors. 
In the morning we started again. We now had fairly 
arrived in the Dardanelles, and from Gallipoli we had a sail 
of nearly twenty-five miles to Tchanak Kale. For tjie most 
part, this section of the Strait is uninteresting, and, from a 
military point of view, it is unimportant. The stream is 
about two miles wide, both sides are low-lying and marshy, 
and only a few scrambling villages show any signs of life. 
I was told that there were a few ancient fortifications, their 
rusty guns pointing toward the Marmora, the emplacements 
having been erected there in the early part of the nineteenth 
century for the purpose of preventing hostile ships entering 
from the north. 'These fortifications, however, were so 
inconspicuous that I could not see them ; my hosts informed 
me that they had no fighting power, and that, indeed, there 
. u-i ^aiiery of Outer Strait 
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THE DARDANELLES AS 
When Ambassador Morgenthau, at the invllation o( the Turkish Government, 
visited all the batteries. He found the batteries well delended but short of 
ammunlUoo and completely outranged by the guns of the Allied fleets. On 
IT WAS MARCH 16, 1915 
! March 19 the Germans and Turks were prepared to retreat to Anatolia 
and leave Constantinople at the mercy at the British. The Allies abandoned 
I the attack at the precise moment when complete victory was In their grasp. 
