CHRYSANTHEMUMS—Continued 
burlap or similar material. It is to be hoped that in 
time a strain of early-flower plants will be found. 
Those who are willing to make shelters for varieties 
which bloom too late to escape frosts have devised 
various temporary shelters of cloth or sash which 
give fairly adequate protection. 
VARIETIES 
The choice of varieties for the garden is a ditticult 
matter, because each person has a personal prefer- 
ence to be considered. In addition the chrysanthe- 
mum, having become a flower of the specialist, is 
exhibited in dozens of new forms each year, some 
of which survive the test of distribution, while otners 
are dropped after one season, thus making the 
chosen list of any date more or less useless after a 
very few seasons. 
TYPES OF BLOOMS 
Certain types of blooms should be known to all 
growers and gardeners, the final choice of varieties 
from these being safely left to the individual. 
The early flowering and decorative varieties are not 
so much grown by amateur gardeners as they well 
might be. They flower as freely as the pompon varie- 
ties and produce blooms of considerable size and a 
delightful range of shapes and colors. 
With the early-flowering sorts should be grown some 
of the anemone flowered varieties. They are delight- 
ful chrysanthemums, much like single or semidouble 
ones, except that the florets of the yellow disks de- 
velop a more petal-like substance. All are likely to 
be rather late flowering and should be given a 
sheltered location. 
The single varieties however are beautiful flowers 
for the home gardener and in the opinion of the 
writer are the very best for cut flowers for the home 
as well as for garden decorations. Their number is 
legion, and the variations of color, form, and degree 
of singleness are so many that an extensive collec- 
tion might well include only single sorts. 
INSECT ENEMIES 
The aphid in its several forms, black, green, and 
red, finds the chrysanthemums a favorite feeding 
place, and the careful gardener must be constantly 
prepared to apply contact insecticides to prevent 
the aphids from multiplying to such numbers that the 
plants are checked in their development. Two thor- 
ough applications will check each attack, one killing 
the larger part of the infestation and the second 
catching any which escaped the first application. 
The aphids may often be knocked off by a strong 
stream of water from a hose where available, and 
this treatment, frequently given, is often all that is 
necessary to keep them in check. 
Additional information regarding Chrysanthemums 
will be given upon request. 
SHADING TO ADVANCE 
THE FLOWERING SEASON 
Methods of applying shade vary with most growers. 
It depends on the material on hand and the location 
of the beds. While black sateen cloth is most widely 
used, it is by no means the only suitable material. 
With new cloth that produces a maximum shade, 
roll the cloth over them at 6 P. M., leaving it until 
7 A. M., following morning. With large mums, a few 
days over three weeks is ordinarily required to set 
buds, after which, discontinue shading. With the 
pompons, the shading must be continued atter the 
first or center bud is set. This is necessary to get the 
side buds set, and usually calls for ten days or 2 
weeks longer shading. On October pompons, around 
60 days, can be safely figured from the start or shad- 
ing to cutting of crop. November varieties will run a 
week or 10 days over this. Big mums will cover about 
the same time from shading to cutting, the varieties 
vary in this class. 

TO RETARD FLOWERING 
This is done thru prolonging daylight with electric 
lights as already suggested. For mid-season kind, 
turn on lights about August 20. For December varie- 
ties, start a week later. Do not start later, or finished 
stock will tend to have long necks and sometimes, 
malformed flowers. Use 40 Watt bulbs with reflectors. 
Space light 5 feet and high enough to spread the 
light well over the bed. Turn lights on when darkness 
is reached and for 3 hours daily. Continue the light- 
ing for three-fourths as many days as it is wished to 
delay flowering; in other words, if you wish to defer 
flowering 20 days, keep the lights on them 15 days. 
It is not considered practical to delay flowering more 
than 3 or 4 weeks. Take first bud showing after light 
treatment stops. While the behavior of varieties 
varies under this treatment, success with the above 
suggestions has been fairly uniform. 
ieee PIPE: 
