WHEN AND HOW TO TRANSPLANT—When plantlets 
have fully developed their second pair of leaves, or “true” 
leaves as they are called, it is best to transplant them either 
to flats about three inches deep or to small pots. Remove 
them from the seed bed gently to damage the roots as little 
as possible and plant somewhat deeper than they originally 
grew, so that the stems will be well supported. 
To assure the largest possible root surface, cut the soil at 
right angles with a sharp knife from top to bottom and 
transplant with the soil. Be sure to make the hole—with 
the forefinger or a small stick—sufficiently large to take 
the roots in a natural position without crowding. With the 
tips of the thumbs and forefingers press the soil very 
firmly about the roots—not merely against the stems on 
the surface. 
HOW TO FEED SEEDLINGS—When the seedlings have 
reached the stage of transplanting they require more plant 
food than they had in the seed flat mixture. Mix one tea- 
cupful of complete fertilizer with each bushel of soil mixture 
to make it fertile. One bushel of soil will take care of a 
great many plantlets. 
TEMPERATURE AND LIGHT—The transplanted seedlings 
should be kept at a temperature of 45 to 50 degrees. If they 
are kept near a window, turn the boxes each day, otherwise 
the plants will lean towards the light and grow lopsided 
er spindling. 
THE RIGHT SOIL—Soil should be comparatively lignt in 
texture and preferably not too rich in plant-food. One- 
third garden loam, one-third peat moss and one-third sharp 
sand will grow healthy seedlings. The root systems made 
by the plants in a soil mixture after this formula are truly 
wonderful. 
WHEN RE-POTTING IS NECESSARY—As the little plants 
grow they may need to be shifted to larger pots to keep 
them in good growing condition up to the time the weather 
permits their being planted outdoors. This transplanting 
should be done when the roots have formed a mat around 
the inside of the pot. Usually it is best to change to a pot 
only one or two sizes larger than that in which the plant 
has been growing. As before, the plant should be kept 
from wilting as much as possible for the first few days 
after being repotted. 

Staffel’s 
Parabenzene Moth 
Crystals 
For the control of 
peach tree borers, 
moths, fleas, ants 

and weevils. 

Y, Ib. 30c; 1 Ib. 50c 

3 BEST WAYS TO KILL 
RATS AND MICE 

Staffel’s Rat and Mouse Seed 
A specially prepared Poison Bait which 
attracts rats and mice. Simply place a 
small amount of Staffel’s Rat and Mouse 
Seed on cardboard or paper, preferably 
in the attic or, if used outdoors, in tin 
cans where pets or children can’t get to 
it. A slow killer which gives the rodents 
a chance to leave the premises before 
they die . . . thus avoiding unnecessary 
odors. Guaranteed to do the work or your 
money back. 2 Ounces 25c; 6 Ounces 50c. 

Staffel’s Rat Sip 
An odorless liquid poison which has been 
a selling sensation ever since Staffel’s 
introduced it to the public. Rats drink it 
instead of water. Goes fast in hot weath- 
er when those nasty rats are thirsty. A 
sure-fire slow killer which gives rats a 
chance to leave the premises before they 
die. Rats will leave the premises in 24 
to 48 hours except those too sick to go 
far. Must be kept away from children 
and pets. 6 Ounces 35c; pint 85c. 

Staffel’s Red Squill Powder 
Staffel’s Red Squill Powder has been a 
favorite of long standing with people 
who have been harrassed by rats and 
mice. A deadly poison to rats—it’s abso- 
lutely harmless to domestic animals and 
humans. Prepare your own baits with this 
wonderful rodent exterminator. Fish, meat, 
bread, cereals, bacon .. . all these can 
be deadly poisons to rats and mice when 
fixed with Staffel’s Red Squill Powder. 
3 Ounces 50c 
PAGE FIFTEEN 
