N HOW TO GROW 
SUCCESSFULLY 
Time of Planting 
When heavy frosts are over, plant 
early peas, onion sets and seed, 
kale, lettuce and spinach. 
When frosts are about over plant 
radishes, parsnips, carrots, beets, 
late peas and early sweet corn, 
and out cabbage, and cauliflower 
plants. 
When all frosts are over and apple 
trees are in bud, plant string 
beans and late sweet corn, and 
set out early tomato plants from 
the indoor boxes. 
When apple trees blossom, plant 
cucumbers, melons, squashes, lima 
beans and set out the rest of the 
plants. 
Trees, shrubs, vines and dormant 
roses should be set out as early as 
conditions will permit, before the 
leaf beds open. 
Plant strawberry plants as soon as 
danger from severe frosts is past. 
Peonies, Iris, Phlox and _ other 
perennials should be planted under 
the same conditions. 
Gladiolus bulbs and Dahlias should 
not be planted until the soil is 
quite warm. 
Transplanting 
Before removing plants soak soil 
thoroughly and wherever possible 
take up soil with the plant. It 
pays to take great care to avoid 
injury to roots in handling the 
plants. Set them out as soon as 
possible to prevent air from com- 
ing in contact with roots—then 
firm soil so that roots can take 
hold securely. 
After transplanting it is advisable 
to provide shade or a mulch 
around roots. 
For plants like cabbage and celery, 
trim off one-third to one-half of 
the tops to prevent more evapora- 
tion than the roots can afford. 
Crop Succession 
It is preferable not to have a 
second planting of any one crop 
follow the first on the same soil. 
Where vegetables mature early, 
they should be followed by later 
kinds. For example, follow early 
carrots by late beans or corn—or 
follow radishes with cabbage or 
tomatoes. 
‘ Turnips 
For summer greens or roots, 
sow as early as radishes and 
lettuce. Thin out when the 
plants have grown to about 
1 inch high: Sow again in 
summer for fall and winter 
use. Turnips are essentially 
cold weather plants—so do 
best when most of their 
growth is made in Autumn 
or early Spring. 
liberal forkful of well rotted manure in each hill. Plants should 
be thinned to four per hill after the third leaf develops and 
vines then trained in different directions. Cultivate as long as 
possible. On moist ground use shingle or some other method 
to hold melons off the ground to prevent rotting. 
OKRA OR GUMBO—Do not plant until ground is warm, as 
this is a tender, hot weather plant. Pick pods before they de- 
velop woodyfibres. 
ONION SETS—Plant the sets right side up and cover with 
garden rake; then firm the soil well over the sets. 
ONIONS—For best yield, plant on very fertile land—fall 
plowed, and thoroughly fertilized. When plants are a few 
inches tall, thin to prevent crowding—using the plants removed 
as green onions. After that pull as needed. Those left to be- 
come full ripe can be stored for winter. Cultivate and hand- 
weed crop every two weeks during the summer. 
PARSLEY—Seed is slow to germinate, and is helped by soak 
ing in warm water over night before planting. Sow early. Be 
careful not to sow too deeply. When curled varieties are about 
3 in. tall, cut off all leaves; the new growth will be brighter 
and better curled. 
PARSNIP—Parsnips do well in any reasoably rich, deep soil. 
But for best results plant in rich, sandy loam, thoroughly pul- 
verized. Parsnip seed requires plenty of moisture right along 
for germination and should be sown early. Dig after a killing 
frost. Freezing improves Parsnips, so some can be left in the 
ground all winter and used in spring. 
PEPPERS—Warm, mellow soil in a sheltered situation is best. 
Start under glass. Be sure to cultivate regularly, drawing the 
soil up around the stems. When plants are 7 in. to 8 in. tall, 
hoe in a light dressing of commercial fertilizer. 
PUMPKIN—Same as for melons or cucumbers, but Pumpkins 
are less sensitive to unfavorable conditions of soil and weather. 
PEAS—To get an early crop, plant in light, rich soil. For the 
general crop, a rich loam or clay soil is best. Plant at two- 
week intervals for continuous supplies. Germination can be 
hastened by soaking seed in water the night before planting. 
Peas need moderate temperature, plenty of moisture. Light 
frosts do not injure them so they may be planted early in 
spring. Varieties more than 1% ft. tall should be staked or 
otherwise supported as soon as they are 4 to 6 in .tall. Sharp- 
ened branches of trees set between double rows will do nicely 
for supports. Garden peas, like all legume crops, almost al- 
ways benefit by inoculation. Quantity and quality of the crop 
are increased when the beneficial nitrogen-fixing bacteria are 
present in sufficient numbers. 
RADISH—Soil should be light, quick and rich to encourage 
rapid growth. Sow as early as ground can be worked, as Ra- 
dishes are very hardy. Make successive sowings up to hot 
weather. When in the third leaf, thin to 3 in. apart. Pull 
promptly when they mature. 
SPIN ACH—Plant very early in spring—or start in fall (giving 
it protection by 3 inches of straw over the winter) and enjoy 
an early spring crop. Plan to cut all spinach before hot weather 
as it doesn’t do well in extreme heat. Sow again in August or 
September for fall crop. Spinach should always be gathered 
before the flower spike appears. 
SQUASH—Plant about the same time as corn—and in hills the 
same as for corn or muskmelon. Squash does best in rich, sandy 
loam, and is further helped by fertilizing the hills the same as 
for melons. 
SWISS CHARD—Requires about the same treatment as beets, 
being a member of the Beet family. Cultivate frequently. Leaves 
may be gathered during the summer and fall and new ones will 
grow quickly. 
TOMATOES—Do best in sandy, well pulverized loam. Seed 
should be sown in hotbed or indoors. When plants are about 
two inches high set them out, three inches apart, in boxes or 
pots—later transplant into the garden. Or keep in flats until 
weather is warm and sunny with frost danger past, and then 
set plants out directly into the garden. Water around the roots 
of the plants when getting them out, if the ground is dry. 
Cultivate frequently until plants shade the ground. Remove all 
but the two or three strongest branches. Study various methods 
of staking and training the vines and adopt the one best suited 
to your situation. ‘ 
PAGE TWENTY THREE 
