
STAFFEL’S QUICK BERMUDA GRASS—The only 
successful spring and summer lawn grass that 
stands Texas sun. Prepare your soil by spading, 
and mix one-half pound Bermuda seed with 
four quarts of fine dirt or sand. Sow on 1,000 
square feet. Bermuda grass must be kept moist 
until germination in warm weather; it requires 
ten days to germinate. Be sure to plant Staf- 
fel’s 99% Pure Fancy Bermuda grass seed. 
Pound 75c; 10 pounds $6.50. 
KENTUCKY BLUE GRASS—Sow in fall and mix 
two parts White Dutch Clover and eight parts 
Kentucky Blue Grass. Blue Grass is a little 
slow in germinating, and will last about a 
year. Pound 60c. 
CARPET GRASS—Makes a thick, leafy sod 
that improves with close cutting. It may be 
grown wherever the temperature does not fall 
below 10 degrees. It is easily eradicated by 
plowing. Sow 10 pounds to the acre for pas- 
ture; 20 pounds for lawn from early spring 
until July. Culture: Barely cover seed, water 
twice daily. Plant from May to September. 
Pound 60c; 10 pounds $5.00. 
WHITE DUTCH CLOVER—Grows exceptionally 
well in shady places. For best results mix with 
English Rye, one pound to four pounds English 
Rye is sufficient for 1,000 square feet, 20x50 
Pound $100; 10 pounds $8.50. 
ENGLISH RYE GRASS — English Rye during 
winter presents a beautiful appearance, being 
vivid green and as the Bermuda, during April 
ond May, makes its appearance, it overgrows 
the English Rye, causing the latter to decay 
and act as a fertilizer to the existing grass. 
Sow from September to March, 5 pounds to 
1,000 square feet, 20x50. Pound 25c; 10 
pounds $1.75. 
ITALIAN RYE GRASS—Surpasses the Perennial 
Rye in earliness and lasts about a year. We 
recommend it for winter and early spring 
planting. Sow five pounds to a plot 20x50. 
Before sowing use Staffel’s Lawn Fertilizer, 25 
see to a plot 20x50. Pound 25c; 10 pounds 
STAFFEL’S SHADY PLACE MIXTURE — On 
many lawns there are unsightly, bare spots 
under trees, and between adjoining houses 
where it is impossible to get the ordinary lawn 
grass to grow. This mixture is made up of 
short growing, fine leaved grasses that will 
give you an evergreen sod in the most densely 
shaded spots. Often the soil is sour. Before 
planting use 50 pounds lime to 100 square 
feet. Pound 40c; 10 pounds $3.00. 
RED TOP—A variety well adapted to growing 
where extensive care cannot be expended on 
the lawn. The leaf-blades are narrow, becom- 
ing very thin with turf cultivation. It gains 
maximum development in early fall. Su-ceeds 
in all soils. Pound 40c; 10 pounds $3, postpaid. 
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HOW TO MAKE A LAWN 
Fill in your plot with good soil, rake evenly, and to avoid foreign weeds and grasses 
water well before planting. When the weeds and grasses appear spade them under and 
again rake evenly. Much labor will be saved and you will have the assurance of a 
perfectly pure Bermuda Grass Lawn. After the above instructions have been followed, 
mix Bermuda Grass Seed in a water bucket of sand to assure even distribution—one 
pound to a space 20x50 and sow. Chop seeds in with rake and water each day for a 
period of ten days in warm weather. 
Winter Lawn 
Staffel’s English Rye will grow in shady places where Bermuda will not succeed. Spade 
your ground thoroughly and apply Fertilizer, 25 pounds Commercial 6-12-6 to a space 
25x30 feet and add 1 bale Peat Moss. Sprinkle your English Rye at the rate of 8 
pounds to 50x100 feet. Grass will appear in a week. 
If one desires a pretty green lawn to replace the dead looking Bermuda Grass, plant 
Staffel’s English Rye over the Bermuda in October. The following late spring the English 
Re will die, the Bermuda Grass taking its place. English Rye will not harm Bermuda 
rass. 

JUST A FEW LAWN HINTS... 
WHEN MAY SEEDING START? Cold weather (even 
freezing temperature) doesn’t harm ‘grass seed. So you may 
start spring lawn work long before you can get at the 
flower garden. Grass seed won’t be harmed by any weather 
conditions except standing water. 
SOW SEED PROPERLY. Take great care to get even dis- 
tribution. Sow half the seed lengthwise, the other half 
crosswise. 
Seed on a calm day, or early in the morning, so that seed 
will fall where you want it. Rake it in lightly, cover with 
about %” of fine soil, and roll so as to keep seed firmly 
in place. 
TOP DRESSING HELPS MIGHTILY. You can give new 
seedlings a better start, help old grass spread out, and true 
up the surface by proper top dressing. Use a bushel of 
good, rich, weedfree soil per 100 sq. ft., with a little extra 
in the low spots. 
If your soil has too much clay in it, include sand in your 
top dressing. If too sandy, work in some clay. 
Always apply a good fertilizer to help the new plants 
when they need help most—during their early growth. 
(Don’t use fresh manure; it almost always contains weed 
seeds.) 
The most important pant of nest 
control és preuention utars 
Keep a daily watch upon your plants. Disease is easy to prevent 
but hard to cure. Spray or dust at the first sign of trouble. 
SPRAYING—Sprays adhere to foliage better than dust. Fewer 
applications are necessary. Spraying can be done under weather 
conditions such as light wind, which makes dusting impractical. 
Less materials are wasted in spraying than in dusting. 
DUSTING—Less time is required for applying the material than 
for spraying. Less labor is required. There is less danger of burn- 
ing tender foliage. Dusting is more efficient in killing aphids 

that attack leaves of low-growing crops, where it is impossible to 
force liquid spray against the bodies of the insects. 

