





The great majority of our tubers are produced 
annually from seed and ripen with us ap- 
proximately the end of December. The size 
will vary anywhere from less than 1 in. in 
diameter to as much as 3 in. in diameter. The 
larger the bulb, the larger the plant one can 
expect. However, the size and quality of flow- 
ers are not governed by the size of the bulb. 
For commercial distribution they are graded 
into three sizes, as shown in picture on page 4. 
Delivery, January to end of March. 
SEEDLING TUBERS 
1. Large Size; 2 in. up in diameter. This is 
the most preferred size, which produces large 
plants and if grown in pots requires minimum 
8 in. or 9 in. containers. 
2. Medium Size. 1 in. to 2 in. in diameter. 
Often this size is used for smaller pots, 7 in. 
in size, and will give excellent results for 
bedding. 
3. Small Size. 1 to 11/4 in. diameter. This 
size will not give large plants the first season 
but it is satisfactory for bedding purposes or 
small pot plants. We do not offer these in our 
retail trade, as they require professional ex- 
perience to bring best results. 
CUTTING TUBERS 
Nos. 4, 5 and 6. In some hanging varieties 
we offer tubers produced from cuttings, which 
differ only in form from the tubers produced 
from seedling plants. Cuttings often have to 
be grown for two years before they form suf- 
ficiently large tubers for sale. The cost of 
production and additional growing naturally 
raises the price of propagated varieties. 
SPECIMEN TUBERS 
No. 7. Each year we have a limited number 
of large tubers two to four years old, which 
have been grown in pots for breeding pur- 
poses. These, of course, are the finest Be- 
gonias we can offer for show purposes; to be 
grown in containers 12 in. in diameter. 
CULTURE OF TUBEROUS BEGONIAS 
Tubers... If early flowering is desired place 
tubers during January and February in a 
warm place in open trays. Moisten slightly 
once in a while until they come to life. As they 
begin sprouting, plant in flats in a mixture of 
peat and sand, leaf mold and sand, or peat 
alone, all of which are good media for de- 
veloping a root system. Plant tubers 3 to 4 
in. apart, so that they are 1% in: below the 
surface. Keep uniformly moist but not too 
wet, in a warm place, well lighted, until 3 or 
4 in. of growth develops. Then plant in a per- 
manent location or in pots, as desired. The 
front of the plant is always where the tips of 
the leaves are pointing. Often if dormant tu- 
bers are planted in open ground, especially if 
it 1s too cold or wet, a number of them may 
rot and the planting will be uneven, with some 
coming earlier and some later, with the plants 
facing in haphazard ways. Started first in flats, 
they will develop a splendid root system which 
is necessary for the forming of fine specimen 
plants. 
Transplanting . . . Before the plants be- 
come too large and crowded in flats, trans- 
plant in open ground or pots, taking care not 
to disturb the root system too much. Outdoors 
any light soil containing a lot of humus will 
grow good begonias. Heavy soils should have 
a strong application of a well-rotted manure, 
leaf mold or sand to lighten them. Light, 
gravelly or sandy soils will benefit greatly by 
the application of peat, leaf mold or well- 
rotted manure. If planting in pots, soil should 
be much lighter than that used outdoors; two- 
thirds coarse leaf mold and one-third sand or 
sandy loam will give excellent results. 
Feeding . . . If well-grown specimens are 
desired, additional feeding will be required, 
either with fish or cottonseed meals, both of 
which give fine results. The best method of 
using these fertilizers is to mix them with the 
soil that goes into the lower half of the pot, so 
that the roots will gradually reach into this area. 
If planting outdoors, a heaping tablespoon- 
ful for small plants and two for large plants 
will be sufficient when placed in the lower 
half of the planting hole. In pots a tablespoon- 
ful for a 6-in. pot or a small handful for an 
8-in. pot will be enough to carry the plants 
through the season. See that the fertilizer 
does not come into contact with the stem or 
leaves of the plant, as both form a mold in 
the early stage of fermenting which would at- 
tack the growing tissues and destroy the plant. 
Watering .. . After transplanting, gentle 
overhead watering is best until the plants are 
well established. Too heavy watering during 
the young stage may pack the soil, keeping it 
too wet, thereby causing the soil to go sour. 
Later, when the plants are in full growth, they 
will require a steady supply of moisture as the 
root system is shallow and any drying out will 
give a set-back to normal development. 
