
Contrary to the practice of propagating named varieties of tuberous Begonias, we offer selected 
seedling tubers instead. Propagation of individual varieties is costly and slow, so that by the 
time a sufficient amount has been reproduced for introduction they are already obsolete as com- 
pared with seedlings. Breeding is advancing so rapidly that today’s choice is the discard of 
tomorrow. During flowering season we select and mark all the choicest new seedlings which 
are above average in size, form and color. We are offering tubers of these to connoisseurs who 
desire only the finest for their gardens. For show purposes and greenhouse decoration they are 
the last word in tuberous Begonias. In this group we supply all the double types and colors listed 
on the previous pages, besides including also all the new color developments derived from our 
crosses preliminary to introduction. “Apple Blossom,” a double Camellia, is supplied in this 
group only. 
This year’s advance in breeding brought results far beyond expectations. Some colors, such as 
Cardinal Red, Red Salmon, Rose and Salmon Rose tones, have reached extremely large size. 
The average quality of all other colors is above anything we have previously offered. 
In this group we also have a limited supply of specimen tubers, two or more years of age, which 
have been grown for breeding purposes in our greenhouse displays. When ordering these please 
specify second and third choices of color, as we never have a large quantity of any type or color 
in stock. 
PRICE OF CHOICE SELECT VARIETIES 
Tubers Delivered January to March 
Large size . . . 50c each; $5.00 per dozen; $37.50 per 100 
Medium size . . . 40c each; $4.00 per dozen; $30.00 per 100 
Specimen tubers . . . $1.00 each; $10.00 per dozen 
SPECIAL HINTS 
To grow Begonias to their utmost perfection requires, of course, the finest quality of tubers. Size 
does not matter; smaller tubers of a fine variety will produce as large a flower as the larger 
tubers, but the latter will form larger plants with more flowers. To gain on flower size, break out 
the weaker sprouts when tubers come to life—leaving only one of the strongest which will then 
develop into a very strong stalk bearing larger flowers than if several were left. This does not 
apply to the hanging type, where as many shoots as possible are wanted for good specimens. 
Careful growing and feeding, as described on previous pages, should be followed. Disbudding 
of female flowers is of no help whatsoever. Very large flowers, until the end of the season, can 
be had by cutting out the sideshoots when young, so that all strength goes into the single stalk. 
This can not be performed on all varieties; only where one can cut out the young offshoot in the 
axil without bruising the tissue of the stem. Dusting wounds with charcoal or exposing them to 
sunlight for a time will heal them perfectly. 
If large tubers, which form more shoots, are available, these can be left until 3 to 4 inches 
high. Then cut the weaker ones at the base, so they contain the basal ring, and then root them 
in sand in a closed propagation bed, either with or without bottom heat. They will form roots 
in 3-6 weeks and can then be potted and will bloom nicely the same season, although only a 
small tuber will be formed. In this manner extra choice plants can be propagated. The cutting 
tubers in their second year do not branch as heavily as seedling tubers and consequently bring 
the largest and most perfect blossoms. One can preserve fine varieties by this method and grad- 
ually accumulate a collection of perfect plants. 
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