Giant Flower Carnations 
Field-Grown ... Hardy Rugged Plants 
Cultural Directions for Carnations 
Easy to Grow if These Simple Rules are Followed 
PREPARATION OF SOIL 
Select a sunny spot in your garden and be sure that your 
soil is well drained, yet not too light and sandy. The novice 
will find a medium heavy loam in raised or banked bed as ideal. 
To this soil, a liberal amount of bone meal is spaded in before 
plants are set out. To counteract extreme acidity, which is un- 
favorable for healthy carnation growth, apply dehydrated lime 
or wood ashes lightly. 
TREATMENT OF PURCHASED PLANTS 
Our carnation cuttings are all taken from healthy field grown 
plants. They are rooted in cool benches and subsequently hard- 
ened in open air so that they require very little shading if any 
when planted. It is, beyond doubt, the safest method to pur- 
chase cuttings already established in little pots especially when’ 
stock must be shipped to destinations where several days are 
consumed during transit. We receive constant shipments from 
New England States and when potted plants are received, our 
loss is reduced to nil. Although, when the plants arrive heated 
or chilled, necessary precaution should be given to harden the 
plants as soon as possible. 
The cuttings should be set out as shallow as possible not 
deeper than it was in the sand. Stemrot will occur when planted 
too deeply. The plants should be thoroughly watered when set 
out and no more watering is necessary until the surface shows 
signs of getting dry. 
STOPPING AND DISBUDDING 
Plants should be spaced sufficiently apart so that they will 
have ample air circulation between the plants when they have 
formed the bushes. They are first stopped when 3 or 4 inches 
high. The object of this is to encourage the young plant to 
build up bushy plant, which in turn will produce more flowers. 
The best method is to pull the center out; do not break it off. 
When the stem is broke off, only 2 or 3 new growths will appear 
but when pulled off, several stems will rise from this first 
operation. The center of these new growths are further topped 
occasionally until far into July, when winter flowers are pre- 
ferred. Then the plants are allowed to form their flower stems. 
When the buds develop sufficiently large, all side buds are re- 
moved thus leaving single bud to a stem. 
FEEDING AND WATERING 
Very wet or very dry soil conditions are both detrimental to 
support a vigorous, healthy growth of carnations. Although in 
winter, they will stand being kept fairly dry much better than 
on the wet side, especially since we have most of our rainfall at 
that time here in Southern California. 
As carnation is almost an ever-blooming flower, feeding 
should be made almost the year around after the final topping 
in July. Nitrogen content stimulates a rapid leaf and stem 
growth; phosphoric acid and potash build up steady, firm 
growth of plant with large flower, good substance and good 
color. For these reasons, complete fertilizers which are in the 
market today, such as ‘’Gaviota,’’ “Gro-rite,'’ ‘“Vigoro,” etc., are 
recommended in cooler months. These fertilizers may be applied 
dry and watered into the soil. When the days become longer 
and hot days approach; a mulching of cow manure will largely 
assist in retaining the moisture within the soil. The feeding roots 
of carnations are very close to the surface and should not be 
cultivated very near the plant, and weeds appearing near the 
plant should be pulled out when little rather than hoed out. 
DISEASES AND INSECT PESTS 
Carnations, like other cultivated plants, are susceptible to 
fungus diseases and insect pests but fortunately, these are all 
easily controllable. Fungus disease or disease caused by other 
organisms such as blight, spot, rust and wilt can be controlled 
and prevented with the use of bordeaux mixture. A soap spread- 
er is used with this mixture to insure complete coverage of 
the foliage. 
Our worst insect pests are aphids, thrips, and red spiders. 
The former two are easily controlled with either nicotine, roto- 
none, or phyrethum sprays, but the latter is little more difficult 
to destroy. Up to date, ‘‘Loro’’ with soap spreader or ‘‘Hi-tox”’ 
are the best known sprays to destroy the red spiders after 
infestations. Overhead watering or occasional bathing of plants 
with strong pressure hose in clear warm days will help remov- 
ing the spiders and aphids when plants are young. 
AVIATOR 
es 9 Anke 
ya 

