PLANTING 
One of the most common rea- 
sons for very ordinary crops of 
Mums and Pomps is too-late 
planting. Chrysanthemums flower 
only at a certain time. If the 
plants are started sufficiently 
early, they will make sufficient 
growth to produce large flowers 
on long, strong stems. If plants 
are started too late, they won't 
have enough time to develop suf- 
ficient strength to produce -first 
class stock. If you grow Mums or 
Pomps in outdoor or cloth or lath 
house beds, rooted cuttings should 
be planted just as soon in the 
spring as you can do so safely; 
early May is the latest practical 
date. If your crop is an indoor 
one and uses mid-season varieties 
shaded to flower in late Sept. or 
early Oct., rooted cuttings should 
be planted in early May. If your 
houses are filled with spring stock that won’t be 
cleared until late June, better not try to grow 
Mums early—you'll find it cheaper to buy first 
class flowers. Thanksgiving flowering varieties 
can be planted safely not later than the first of 
July. Christmas flowering varieties like Garza 
Supreme can be planted in July. One grower 
of our acquaintance who cuts Mums and Pomps 
from the middle of August until February, lifts 
large field-grown Garza plants the middle of 
August for planting after his earliest shaded 
crop. This is an extreme case of late planting 
and isn’t generally recommended. 
The above planting dates can be extended 
somewhat by potting rooted cuttings or plant- 
ing them out-doors or inside in benches close 
together, about 4x5 in., and then moving the 
plants to their flowering beds later. Theoret- 
ically this practice ought to work all right. The 
difficulty lies in the fact that these plants are 
very liable to become checked or hardened either 
by being left in pots too long or checked in 
moving from one location to another when they 
are fairly large plants. 
As a general rule, best crops result from 
planting rooted cuttings right into their flower- 
ing beds and the earlier the better. This avoids 
all checks to growth that result in partial 
failures. 
SPACING 
The spacing of plants is conditioned by two 
factors. On one side is the economic, arguing 
that the more flowers cut per sq. ft., the more 
money earned. The other and opposite influence 
places a minimum spacing between plants, be- 
low which Mums or sprays of Pomps will not 
develop fully and normally. Too close spacing 
prevents proper light and air circulation and 
in so doing, not only prevents proper develop- 
ment of flowers and foliage but also invites no 
end of insect and disease problems. 

Ish 
eS 
‘‘October Pink’’ the new single that doesn’t lose its color when shaded. 
Heayy producer, clear rose pink. That’s John Jacobs, West Chicago, 
Illinois, the grower on the right. 
Another factor to be considered is the indi- 
vidual varieties to be grown; some varieties 
are much heavier growers than others and there- 
fore require more room. A satisfactory spacing 
for an average variety, grown one flower to a 
plant might be 6x7 or 7x8. The same variety 
grown two flowers per plant should be spaced 
more liberally, say 8x8 to 8x10. 
Our friend Cecil Delworth of Weston, Ont., 
Canada, uses the following rule-of-thumb for 
spacing plants of Pomps. Altho recognizing 
that Pompon varieties vary considerably in their 
heaviness of growth and therefore in their space 
requirements, Mr. Delworth thinks that spacing 
of plants should be conditioned by the number 
of sprays to be grown to a plant. For instance 
if you are growing only two sprays per plant, 
a spacing of 5x8 to 7x8 in. might be appropri- 
ate and 8x8 in. for three stems per plant. This 
figures between 20 and 30 sq. in. of bench 
Space per stem or spray. 
Experience with the varieties you grow 
also with your own methods of growing 
largely determine the spacing you use. 
above are suggestions of spacings used by 
cessful growers of first class stock. 
PINCHING POMPONS 
Closely allied with the question of spacing, 
is that of pruning or pinching. Successful 
growers of first class stock agree that Pomps 
should not only be pinched back to make the 
plants branch but. should be so pinched and dis- 
budded as to allow only a definite and pre- 
determined number of sprays to form per plant. 
Mr. Delworth advocates allowing two, or at the 
most three sprays per plant. Most growers of 
first class stock limit their production to not 
over 4 sprays per plant. The problem is one 
you should settle for yourself and it should be 
settled purely on a dollar and cents basis. Ob- 
viously if you allow your plants to produce as 
and 
will 
The 
Suc- 
