BebeteLn Re CUM SPOOR +1 9'4 3 ROM Rae 
them strictly according to directions and with 
good equipment. Not many growers lose a 
whole crop to an infestation of midge or red 
spider or to a case of verticillium but the sum 
total of partial losses due to these pests are 
heavy. Every effective and intelligent effort 
you can make to keep your plantings free of 
insects and diseases will be amply rewarded. 
Many of our old stand-by insecticides and 
fungicides are no longer available this season 
because of priorities and material shipping 
difficulties. In nearly all cases, however, suit- 
able substitutes are available. Nicofume liquid 
applied according to directions will take good 
care of aphis or green fly. Loro or Lethane 
are effective on Mealy Bug and Midge and 
Red Spider and Thrip. Some growers prefer 
fumigation with Cyanide or Nicofume for 
Midge and Thrip. 
Foliar nematode is not easy to get rid of and 
usually results in partially defoliated plants. 
Keeping foliage dry and using double strength 
Nicofume spray are recommended by Laurie. 
Destroying all infected plants and_ steriliz- 
ing soil is good insurance against re-appear- 
ance next season. Foliar nematode infestation 
can be identified by red or brown to black 
spots that occur between veins on the leaves. 
Verticillium is one of the most important 
and destructive diseases attacking Chrysanthe- 
mums. Wilting of the leaves of infected plants 
is the most common symptom altho in some 
cases no wilting occurs. Diseased plants are 
stunted and beginning at the bottom of the plant 
leaves turn brown and die; they remain attached 
to the plant, however. Chrysanthemum plants 
usually don’t die from a verticillium infection 
but produce under-sized and deformed flowers. 
Verticillium is spread in two ways: by soil 
infested with the fungus and by plant tissue 
that is diseased. It is up to you to be sure the 
soil in which you intend to plant your Mums 
is absolutely free of verticillium; a good job of 
soil sterilizing will get rid of an infestation if 
you have one. Obviously, to buy disease-free 
stock and then plant it in infested soil would 
be a foolish waste of time and money. 
It is also the duty of the propagator from 
whom you buy cuttings to furnish you disease- 
free cuttings. Cuttings of most of the import- 
ant varieties listed in this catalog are taken from 
absolutely disease-free stock as checked by labor- 
atory cultures. ALL cuttings are taken from 
only healthy, robust plants. If you propagate 
your own cuttings, watch the plants you intend 
to use for stock closely during their growing and 
flowering stages,—the disease manifests itself 
more clearly then than later. Pull out and 

destroy all infested plants just as soon as they .« 
show symptoms. 
Another precaution you can take to keep 
verticillium from your Mum planting consists 
in confining your planting as nearly as possible 
to only those varieties that are verticillium-re- 
sistant. Our catalog indicates those varieties 
that are considerably resistant. In some cases, 
these resistant varieties show some symptoms of 
EUROPA. A brilliant Cardinal red single. 
the disease but even if planted in heavily in- 
fested soil, these resistant varieties will produce a 
good percentage of marketable flowers. The 
variety Seidewitz (both Edwin and White) is 
the classical example of a susceptible variety. 
Before verticillium was definitely isolated and 
recognized, it was known by growers as Seide- 
witz Disease because wherever it occured the 
Seidewitz varieties always were badly affected. 
Because of this susceptibility, these varieties 
have practically disappeared from commerce. 
To sum up on verticillium: (1) If you have 
verticillium trouble, buy or propagate cuttings 
taken only from disease-free plants; (2) plant 
only in sterilized soil and (3) use only verticil- 
lium-resistant varieties. 
Mildew is sometimes encountered on Chrys- 
anthemum plants. It is usually started and spread 
by close, moist air. It can easily be controlled 
and stopped by ventilation, keeping the foliage 
as dry as possible and dusting with 300-mesh 
dusting sulfur with a power duster. 
Sometimes in shading Chrysanthemums with 
black-cloth for earlier flowering, the cloth is 
put over the plants in the late afternoon and 
left on until well after sun-up. This means that 
the plants are confined to a nearly air-tight 
space all night. With a fall in temperature, 
humidity within the enclosure goes way up— 
sometimes to such an extent as to cause a col- 
lection of moisture on the foliage of the plants. 
Obviously this condition is ‘“‘tailor-made’’ for 
such troubles as foliar nematodes and mildew. 
If such troubles arise, it may be necessary to 
start shading earlier in the afternoon and take 
the cloth off after dark so the plants will get 
good air circulation during the night. 
oe 
