Mitek ~GCARNATIONS: FOR 1943 — Glgiere 





UNLISTED VARIETIES 
We Can Furnish many varieties of the older and standard carna- 
tions not named in this listing, and which are wanted by some growers. 
Send us the name, the quantity and delivery date of the variety you 
desire. We will advise promptly if we can secure them for you. 
FIELD-GROWN CARNATION PLANTS 
Are always scarce, but if orders are placed in the Spring we can 
furnish most of the standard sorts in June and July. 




Treatment of Insects and Diseases 
RED SPIDERS ... 
This is the worst insect pest with which carnation growers have to contend. There are scores 
of remedies, particularly sprays, many of which are worthless, and some of which are dangerous. 
By far the best method of control is by fumigation with naphthalene base compounds. Liguid Fulex 
is outstanding in this field. Control in the field, in mixed houses, or where only small areas are 
involved may be by spray or dust. It is preferable to spray as little as possible, for there are very few 
sprays which will not injure the plants if used frequently. Sprays and dusts kill by contact, and 
must be applied thoroughly. Rotenone sprays are generally safe and effective on carnations. Oily 
sprays should be avoided as these are likely to remove the bloom from the foliage. Syringing with 
a fine stream of water under pressure may be practiced when plants are small and on bright, warm 
days, but should never be done whenever any fungus or bacterial disease is present. Dusts have met 
with varying degrees of success, and must be used very carefully in hot weather in order to avoid 
damage. 
APHIDS AND THRIPS .. . 
These are comparatively minor problems, and are easily remedied, although thrips will continue 
to blow in from outside as lorig as ventilators are open. Nicotine in one form or another is the 
best cure. Nicotine fumigation every four or five days until the insects are cleaned up is the most 
effective means of control. Spraying with Paris Green and brown sugar is effective in the case of 
thrips, but this leaves the foliage dirty and sticky for months. 
‘ 
RHIZOCTONIA STEM ROT (Rdizoctonia solani) 
Foliage becomes dull, losing green color; entire plant wilts suddenly. Stem near soil wet and 
soft; the shredded bark sloughing off from the slightest twist, exposing harder tissues beneath. 
Roots remain intact. Brown knots of fungus mold evident about decayed portion of stem and adher- 
ing soil. Is caused by a common mold fungus which inhabits most soil and soil-contaminated 
sand. It is not carried in cuttings. Ordinarily the mold is a harmless soil fungus, but under 
favorable conditions it becomes a serious disease. It thrives under excessively moist and warm 
conditions. Control is a matter of correct watering and airing, sanitation, shallow planting, soil 
sterilization and soil rotation. Acidity, alkalinity or fertility of soil within the Imits of good plant 
growth are of no value in the control of the disease. Spraying is useless. Steam sterilization, or 
sterilization with tear gas, helps, but sterilized soil may easily become reinfected if plants are 
brought in from outside. 
FUSARIUM BRANCH ROT  (Easarium dianthi) 
Begins with the wilting of a single branch. Leaves are a dull green, then yellow and straw 
colored. The affected branch dries and shrivels. Infection at first is localized in the stem or 
branch near crotches or nodes. Injuries of one sort or another caused by careless handling, too 
rapid growth, topping, picking, etc., are essential for infection except where the disease has been 
carried with the cuttings. Upon cutting the branches lengthwise, the conductive tissue under the 
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