
Aloe woer nmin orivesnCrOrU No Loy.) PENNSYLVANIA 
PLANTING OF FRUIT TREES 
It is a wise thing to choose land that is well-drained because no fruit trees 
can thrive in a damp, soggy soil. Plum and quince will stand a greater amount 
of dampness than other fruits, but they are better if they do not have to contend 
with unfavorable drainage. The best-drained soil is that whose natural eleva- 
tion conduces to the rapid elimination of surplus water. A gently sloping hill- 
side, free from hollows or swales where late frosts may not linger, affords the 
best site. Peaches ought to get the highest locations, because there is less 
danger from late spring frosts on high ground than on low. 
If possible, the land should be prepared as for a good crop of grain, although 
heavy fertilization is not essential if soil is reasonably fertile. 
Have the holes dug in the proper places for the trees, large enough to receive 
the roots comfortably without bending or twisting them. Stake out the orchard 
in advance to be sure that the holes get dug in the right places. 
When the trees arrive from the nursery, open the package and plant them 
immediately if it is possible. Be very careful to keep the roots covered to 
prevent their drying out. In planting, set the trees upright near the center of 
the holes, spread out the roots evenly, and work fine earth in among them, 
making sure that they are packed in close contact with the soil. If small air- 
pockets remain about the roots they will extract moisture from tiem, so in- 
juring them that the trees may die. Do not apply commercial fertilizer or 
manure to the roots when planting. Any material of this type used should 
be applied on the top soil after tree is planted. 
In setting out young trees, place them a little deeper than they grew in the 
nursery. The earthmark on the base of the stem is the best guide in this. 
If it is impossible to plant the trees immediately, dig them in. To do this, 
dig a trench, shovel width and depth, and long enough to hold the roots when 
they are placed side by side upright. Shift fine earth over the roots, and when 
the trench is half full, soak them with water and pile on the remainder of the 
earth. In this temporary planting the trees will keep in good condition for a 
week or two. 

CARE OF FRUIT TREES 
Newly planted trees should be well cultivated the first season, to conserve 
moisture and to keep down weeds and grass. It is not always good economy 
to intercrop with grass, small fruits, or grain, unless the young trees are mak- 
ing extraordinary strong growth. When the trees are well established, the 
spaces between the rows may be used for other crops for a few years, until 
the trees need the space; but while making their initial growth the trees ought 
not have to compete with other crops for the plant-food in the ground. 
One of the most important items in the care of Fruit Trees is to see that they 
are trained right from the start. Our two-year-old sizos have the heads already 
formed, with three to five scaffold limbs well arranged along the trunk to 
support the head. These trees should be cut back, leaving just the scaffold 
limbs shortened to the point where it is desired to have the head of the tree. 
One-year trees, or whips, should be trimmed to smooth, straight stems, 
cutting them squarely off at the distance from the ground at which it is desired 
to have them branch. Usually, apples, plums, pears, and cherries are headed 
a little higher than peaches, which ought to be encouraged to branch as low 
as possible. The after-pruning is a matter which requires some knowledge 
of tree-growth and habit, as well as the purpose for which the trees are grown. 
