However, satisfactory results can be obtained by shading with white lead and 
gasoline, which should be applied very lightly, just enough to exclude the direct 
rays of the sun. Cheesecloth stretched a few inches from the glass will provide a 
heavier degree of shading for those species which require it, such as Cypripediums. 
In a house having full exposure to the sun in winter, orchids will need 
shading to some extent. Even in a very small greenhouse there exists plenty of 
opportunity for variations in shading, enough to suit individual plants by placing 
upon shelves or near the glass those which require much light, and putting those 
which require more shade on the less exposed side of the house. The observant 
grower will find even a slight change of position in the house will often bring about 
marked improvement in growing conditions for a plant. 
POTTING 
Species bloom at stated seasons, but the hybrids are of irregular habit, 
due perhaps to their mixed origin, they blossom and need repotting throughout the 
year. This makes it difficult to make a rule for potting, but the best time is after 
flowering, or when they start to make their new collar roots. However, many 
orchids should not have their root action disturbed and should not be repotted 
each year. Three rules generally cover this: (1) when the compost decays, (2) when 
the plant does not thrive due to faulty drainage, (3) or when they have outgrown 
their pots. 
New pots should be thoroughly soaked prior to using and old ones 
thoroughly cleaned. Using a five-inch pot as an example, increase the drainage 
hole to about one inch in diameter with the head of a hammer. Place a large piece 
of crock over this hole in such a manner as to allow good free drainage, and fill the 
pot with potsherds to about two inches. All orchids should be potted very firmly. 
Use a sharp-pointed hardwood potting stick and work the compost towards the 
center, packing it in as hard as possible. When finished off, compost should be 
about three-quarters of an inch from the top of the pot, then neatly trim with the 
shears all protruding pieces of fiber. This is recommended proportionately for 
all pots. 
Care should always be taken not to overpot, for if the compost remains 
wet in the center it causes the osmunda fiber to decay, and the roots rot. All newly 
potted plants should be kept on the dry side until root action begins. Syringing is 
most beneficial at this time. 
CATTLEYA 
The best potting material for Cattleyas is osmunda fiber. With these 
and their allied genera, it is almost impossible to force the compost into the pot 
too firmly. Place the back bulb close to the side of the pot, so as to allow the lead- 
ing growths plenty of room. Always plan to have a pot large enough to take two 
“t 58 }- 
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