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* Prof. Alex Laurie on: 
S hading C hrysanthemums 
The shading of Chrysanthemums is an old story, having been developed by the writer and his 
assistants at Ohio Agricultural Experiment Station since 1930, yet despite the many years of trial there 
are still some fundamental mistakes being made. 
The principle behind the practice is that Chrysanthemums normally flower when the days are short 
(10-12 hours long). By providing such short days artificially in the early life of the plant, it is possible to 
flower varieties several weeks in advance of their regular season. 
The culture of the shaded crop does not differ essentially from the normal, except that planting mus: 
be sufficiently early—preferably early May, the pinching of standards and pompons must be earlier, and 
either aster cloth be provided for those flowered outside or some shade kept on the glass for those grown 
inside. All of these precautions are for the purpose of stretching the stems. 
When shaded, bronzes and pinks have a tendency to fade, particularly when wanted in late August 
or September. That is largely due to excessive heat and perhaps to a lesser degree to excessive light dur- 
POTTED CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
ing flowering. 
The culture of this crop is relatively easy and 
depends upon the growers’ ability to manipulate 
growth of plants. It should be profitable, being an 
early and short crop. The demand for this crop is 
increasing, probably due to better culture and 
better varieties. 
GREENHOUSE VS. FIELD GROWN 
Greenhouse stock is superior. Control of disease 
and insects easier. Lifted field plants are not well 
finished plants. Loss of foliage is sometimes 
severe. Increased sales of this crop come only 
when the plants are grown better. Plants grown 
in the greenhouses can be grown shorter and 
more compact. Stems are not quite as heavy but 
of a more desirable type. 
CULTURE 
This crop is not critical as to soil. Good field 
soil with a small addition of manure is satisfactory. 
If planted early in April, shaded June 1, good 
plants may be expected August 10 to 25. June 1 
planting, shaded July 15, will flower the last of 
September. Non-shaded should be planted about 
July 1. 
Three cuttings used per pot except on varieties 
that do not break freely. These are potted four 
cuttings per pot. Cuttings are potted directly into 
5'’%" pots. Plants are finished in that size. 
Supply ample water overhead until cuttings are 
established in pots. Discontinue overhead water- 
ing as plants begin to gain size; too much water 
will cause foliage disorders. Pinching is usually 
done at intervals of 15 days. We usually allow for 
3 pinches. Some varieties will take 4 pinches, or 
delay the last pinch when 3 pinches are used. If 
shading, the last pinch is made on the day the 
shade is applied. Apply shade in same manner as 
for cut flowers. Late pinching must be done care- 
fully to avoid blindness. 
Spray regularly for insects—foliage must be in 

good condition. Fertilize enough to give color and 
good growth. Two applications sufficient; one ap- 
plication in July or August and another as buds 
begin to form. Heavy fertilizations will cause too 
rapid and soft growth. 
DISBUDDING 
Pompons—Remove center bud except on the but- 
ton types. This gives better spacing to the remain- 
ing flowers. Also the center bud generally matures 
earlier than the surrounding buds, giving the ap- 
pearance of irregular blooming and premature 
aging. Remove this bud as early as is convenient. 
Disbuds—Disbudding must be done early; late 
disbudding results in small flowers and weak and 
elongated stems directly below the flowers. 
HEIGHT OF PLANTS 
Pompons, 542" or 6’ pots—11’’-13" from top of pot. 
Disbuds, 52" or 6" pots—14"'-17" from top of pot. 
COLOR DISTRIBUTION 
40% Yellow, 25% Pink, 20% Bronze, 15% White. 
VARIETIES 
Any variety may be used as a potted plant. 
However,. there are certain characteristics of a 
variety that should be considered. These are as 
follows: 
1. Form—Reflex types for disbuds are better than 
incurved varieties. Reflex types show color better. 
Button Pompons or Singles can be used according 
to demand. 
2. Substance of flower is important. Harder type 
flower is more desirable. 
3. Stem—Preferably short and strong. 
4. Foliage—Dark foliage varieties are more de- 
sirable. Varieties with soft foliage should be 
avoided. 
5. Free Breaking varieties best. There is less 
chance for blindness and irregular plants. 
® Head of the Dept. of Floriculture at Ohio State and an authority on the subject. 

It is important for the best results in 
shading that the benches be com- 
pletely covered. Note in the picture 
to the right how the cloth hangs well 
down the side of the bench making for 
uniform darkness about the plants. 
Aster cloth houses are recommended 
for consistently better results if culture 
is attempted outdoors. In the picture 
to the left, Dr. Conrad Link and as- 
sistant are shown pulling the shade 
over a bed of mums in the Ohio State 
University clothhouse. Dr. Link is now 
Assistant Professor of Floriculture at 
the Pennsylvania State College. 
60 
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SPECIFIC 
RECOMMENDATIONS 
Plant early, not later than June 1. 
Use black shades covering tops and 
sides (64x 104 thread count or light- 
weight rubberized cloth). Best results 
are obtained when the light intensity 
under cloth is 2 foot candles or less. 
If greater than 2 foot candles, bloom- 
ing is delayed and may be uneven. 
Cover from 5 P.M. until 7 A.M. 
Treatment started July 15 and followed 
in weekly succession of the same va- 
riety will result in a succession of 
bloom. 
Remove cloth on pompons after buds 
show color; this is usually from 35 to 
40 days after treatment starts. (Ex- 
treme heat during the treatment will 
increase the time of application.) 
Standards should be treated for 30 to 
35 days or when buds are at least 
2 inch in diameter. 
The early and midseason varieties 
should ke used and only those that 
have been tried sufficiently to war- 
rant their use. Best results are ob- 
tained when varieties of the same 
blooming period are used for one par- 
ticular shading. 
Treated late varieties will flower with 
midseason varieties grown under nor- 
mal treatment. 
Pompons grown under aster cloth and 
covered with black cloth from 5 P. M. 
until 7 A. M. produce very satisfactory 
growth and deeper colors than when 
grown in the greenhouse. Without the 
use of aster cloth only soft growing 
varieties are advised, otherwise short, 
stubby growth will result. Occasionally 
during cloudy, moist seasons, good 
growth is secured without aster cloth. 
10. Standards grown under aster cloth 
may be damaged by rains in the fall; 
therefore, the practice is subject to 
heavy losses. If provisions are made 
to protect the flowers by means of 
sash, the practice is satisfactory. 
11. To save cloth, it may be used from 3 
P.M. until darkness and then shifted 
to another bench and the plants cov- 
ered until 10 A.M. the next morning. 
Only cloth which eliminates the light 
entirely is suitable for this purpose. 


