IMPORTANT CULTURAL HINTS 
When the Rose plants have been selected, the next ste 
ses Is the study of the proper methods of culture. Any Rose-lover knows that through 
‘ention to certain principles of cultivation better results can be obtained. Simple directions 
Selection of Location 
in selecting the location for your Rose-bed, it is not im- 
ortant whether your Roses are to get morning or afternoon 
sunlight, but that they do get about a half day of sun. Part 
nade is even preferable to a full day of sunlight. 
Tree Roots 
Select a location where tree roots cannot interfere with 
your Rose roots. It is surprising how quickly tree roots will 
frnd a Rose-bed_and fill tt, consuming food and moisture 
intended for the Roses. If tree roots are present, dig a trench 
around your Rose-bed as deep as the tree roots extend, thereby 
cutting off all that might attempt to enter the Rose-bed. This 
trench may be filled sn again immediately, and should be dug 
around the Rose-bed every year if the tree roots prove bother- 
sie 
Plant Early 
The best time tn the Spring to plant Wyant Roses is just 
as soon as the soil is workable. The larger part of the garden- 
ing public wait until the warm, sunshiny days of Spring to 
start their planting. This is too late to plant to get good re- 
sults. In this latitude Iate March is an ideal time in the Spring 
and planting as Jate as May seldom gives the results you 
anticipate. Fall planting is usually safer even than Spring 
planting, but if you can plant in early Spring it Is no use losing 
a whole season of enjoyment by waiting until Fall, for early 
Spring planted Hybrid Teas start to bloom in June of the 
same year. 
Soils 
It is best to keep away from either extremely heavy or 
extremely light soil, for the loam soils will have more food in 
them. Any rotted vegetable matter (humus) mixed into the 
soil improves the texture and makes it better for the Roses. 
The best soil you can get is best soil for Roses. 
The pH of Soils 
The acidity and alkalinity of soils is designated by pH. It 
has been found that Roses are very tolerant. They will grow 
in a soil from 4.5 pH up to 8 pH, but the best growing con- 
ditions seem to be found in a soil that is neutral or slightly 
acid—that is, around 6 to 7 pH. Lime, in almost any form, 
can be used to make soils more alkaline and sulphur to make 
them more acid. 
p in the growing of successful 
Planting 
If you want successful Roses, plant the bushes close together 
so that the foliage will keep the ground shaded and cool—12 
to 15 inches is the rule for the Hybrid Teas, the taller varieties 
being placed for the best effect. 
Instead of waiting until the bushes arrive, it is better, 
several weeks in advance, to spade the soil down 15 to 18 
inches, adding plenty of manure, if it is available, and if 
drainage is needed, the bed should be tiled and surplus water 
carried away. Guard against the roots drying out from ex- 
posure to sun, wind or freezing during planting. Do not use 
chemical fertilizer when planting Wyant Roses; bonemeal 
and rotten manure only may be used at planting-time. 
Pruning 
When a Rose ts set in the Spring, shorten the strong branches 
to 6 to 8 inches, and the weaker even more. Heap the soil as 
high as the branches are pruned, to protect against drying out, 
until the roots become established. Remove this bank of soil 
when the shoots start, so that the bud, or crown, is about 
level with the soil surface. ; 
The only Fall pruning recommended is_ shortening tall 
bushes down to about 2 feet, so that they will not windwhip. 
The real pruning for established bushes Is given in the Spring 
when the bank of soil is removed. At this time remove dead 
wood from the Hybrid Teas and cut the strong branches down 
to the highest big live bud. Shorten or remove weak growths. 
Hybrid Perpetuals can be shortened down about one-third 
and from Climbers the dead wood should be removed. In July, 
after the first big burst of bloom Is over, you may again prune 
Climbers, but pruning is not recommended unless the plant 
is too large for the trellis. "The weak branches of Polyanthas 
should be cut down and the strong ones shortened one-half. 
Feeding 
Bonemeal is the only Fall fertilizer for Roses that is recom- 
mended. In the Spring, when the bank of soil is removed, 
apply Wyant Rose Food, or else a complete chemical fertilizer, 
to the established plants but not to newly set Roses. Wyant 
Rose Food is recommended, because it is of organic composi- 
tion rather than chemical, and even after long usage does not 
make the soil toxic, nor burn, as a chemical fertilizer will. 
Much fertilizing will produce much bloom, so during June or 
early July make another application to new as well as to 
established Roses, and then again in the latter part of August, 
not after September 1. Each time, apply about a handful to 
medium strong bushes, less to weaker, and more to stronger 
bushes. 
accompany every Wyant Rose, but the suggestions given below are intended to offer addi- 
tional help to Rose-lovers. Feel free to write me at any time about your Rose problems. 
I want Wyant Roses to satisfy you. 
Watering 
If the soil around your Roses is kept cultivated, it will 
seldom be in need of watering. However, during an extended 
drought, soak the ground thoroughly for hours and then do 
not repeat for a week. 
An application of peat put on in June and left the rest of 
the season helps to retain moisture and keeps the soil cooler 
and tn better condition for Rose growing. 
Disease and Insect Control 
A little attention and care will remedy the few diseases and 
insects that attack Rose plants. Dusting is preferable to 
spraying, for it is easier and quicker. 
Spray or dust aphids, the small green lice that appear about 
the tips of the shoots, with insecticides containing nicotine or 
rotenone. Spray or dust worms and insects that eat leaves, 
with rotenone or with a poison, such as arsenate of lead, one 
of the ingredients of Wyant’s Massey Dust. Either of the 
above pests can be controlled with Wyant Rose Dust. 
Knock Rose chafers, the large grayish bugs with long legs 
and snouts, into a pan of water covered with coal-oil. Place a 
drop of shellac or thick white lead on all cut ends in the Spring, 
to keep out the carpenter bee, which makes a hole in the ex- 
posed pith. 
Prevent black-spot and mildew by dusting with any of 
Wyant’s Dusts, beginning as soon as the leaves come out and 
continuing about every week, and more often in rainy weather. 
Apply a light, even coat with a gun on a calm evening before 
the dew, if possible, thereby protecting the foliage so that it 
will be retained until frost. 


Specialist, Mentor, Ohio 
