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A plump bulb of 114 inches diameter has 
plenty food to start production of a show 
specimen spike. If the bulb is 2 inches or 
more in diameter it may have two or more 
prominent eyes or sprouts, indicating that 
it will make as many stalks and spikes. Now 
this one bulb cannot be expected to make two 
or more spikes of the same show specimen 
quality it would produce if held to a single 
eye and spike. If you want to bring renewed 
youth and vigor to your old jumbo bulbs and 
beat the other fellow, just disbud the bulb, 
i.e., gouge out all eyes except the most prom- 
inent one, just as you gouged out the little 
specks of scab or disease, dusting as before. 
We are of opinion that bulbs may be lost by 
this process only by failure to heal the cut 
surface sufficiently before planting. 
NAPTHALENE FLAKES 
We highly recommend this simple and 
economical treatment. If you allow thrips 
to feed upon your bulbs they will suck the 
juices, injure the eyes and rootlets and 
growth will be retarded and inferior flowers 
produced, even if you eventually kill them 
off at planting time by some treatment. 
Avoid crude napthalene or camphor or para- 
dichlorobenzene as they may contain creo- 
sote or other injurious chemicals. The best 
time to use it as soon as the roots are con- 
sidered too dry to suck any napthalene into 
the bulb. Maybe a matter of hours or a few 
days, depending on drying methods. Do 
not apply to bulbs from which the old bulb 
has just been removed, as the severed area 
is moist for a while and the napthalene might 
soak into the bulb. It is safe both to the 
user and to the bulbs, during their dormant 
period of storage, even when an overdosage 
is used, provided the bulbs are fairly well dried. 
One ounce (4 level tablespoons) sprinkled 
on each 100 large bulbs or equivalent in bulk 
of smaller sizes, is sufficient if bulbs are stored 
in closed bottom container. If screen bottom 
or in onion sacks, double the amount. Will 
kill insects promptly and gases will continue 
for several weeks. killing the larvae as soon 
as hatched. Allow to remain at least 3 
weeks. But note they will not hatch under 
50 degrees. Do not completely cover the 
bulbs as evaporation takes place constantly 
and to prevent it will make the bulbs first 
damp, then mouldy, then susceptible to rot 
and diseases. Applying the flakes in a closed 
paper bag is safe for a few weeks if bulbs be 
dry, since some moisture can escape. Avoid 
wax or oil paper bags since moisture could 
not escape. If roots and old bulbs are re- 
moved several weeks after application, any 
napthalene remaining may be removed. If 
the flakes have not entirely evaporated by 
the time little root knobs and eye sprouts 
emerge, showing bulb is no longer dormant, 
shake out any remaining. Do not use any 
napthalene in the trench at planting time 
since it is safe only to the dormant bulb. 
THE GLADIOLUS FANCIER’S 

.and fungus attacks. 
CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE 
Also known as mercuric chloride treatment. 
This produces such wonderful results, 
with so little effort, with so little cost, 
that no one, whether he grows a bed of 
glads four foot square or four acres, 
should fail to so treat his bulbs. Re- 
gardless of where or how the bulbs grew the 
preceding year. This gives the bulb a coat- 
ing that wards off various bulb diseases 
We used to keep our 
bulbs healthy by this process long before we 
ever heard of thrips. Now, it has been con- 
clusively proved, this treatment also kills any 
thrips and their eggs, and, if used, you only 
need keep a watchful eye for thrips infestation 
from outside sources. Remember soaking pro- 
cesses are only advisable just before planting. 
This is not a fall treatment. If your bulbs are 
husked, they need only be soaked half as long, 
but we do not advise husking unless you 
know your bulbs are infested badly and you 
wish to take no chances on penetration to the 
bulb. Many have inquired if the treatment is 
safe to use on badly sprouted or rooted bulbs. 
This will not harm them. 
We read an article in a Canadian ‘‘quarter- 
ly’’ by someone who called himself ‘‘I Dip- 
pem,” who said he had a lot of little batches. 
To keep them separate he obtained some of 
the women folks’ old stockings, slipped a 
batch into a toe with wooden label, tied the 
stocking above the batch and so proceeded 
until all the batches were conveniently ready 
to soak, remove and drain. 
Note Important Revision of formula by 
U.S. Dept. Ent. to allow additional time for 
penetration of stubbornly tight husks. 
Dissolve 1 oz. of the powder first in a bit of 
hot water, then pour into 7 gal. of water, pre- 
ferably above 60 degrees. Remember, cold 
water may render the treatment ineffective. 
This must be poured into a non-metal con- 
tainer, such as a crock, wooden pail, glass or 
unchipped granite ware. Varieties kept sep- 
arate in cloth bags. No difference if bulbs are 
then planted wet or dry, but the sooner the 
better as much of the coating may be lost if 
bulbs become dry. Solution weakens with 
use, so replenish 100% if used again. Soak 12 
to 17 hours, preferably night before planting. 
Be sure bags are fully immersed. Do not use 
this substance in tablet form unless you learn 
exactly how much of the tablet, in weight, is 
actually corrosive sublimate. You want a 
final solution of about 1-1000. This solution 
is safe to the hands but is a deadly poison and 
must be used and disposed of with extreme 
care. 
Our bulbs get the napthalene treat- 
ment a week or two after digging, the 
Ethylene gassing late January and the 
unsold bulbs get the corrosive sublimate 
before planting. Advertising ‘‘treated’’ 
bulbs means little unless you know the 
method used and when last used. 
