



CABBAGE, Golden Acre 
Yellows-Resistant 
CRESS 
Curled or Pepper Grass — Grows 
very quickly. Use for flavoring sal- 
ads, for garnishing, or as a green 
in sandwiches. Has an agreeably 
pungent taste. Best if used when 
young. 40 days. Pkt. 10c. 
- CUCUMBER 
A and C—A long dark green cu- 
cumber which merits a trial. Uni- 
form, nearly cylindrical, well 
rounded at ends. 
Chicago Pickling—Even size, 
square ended; 7-in. long and 2'2- 
in. thick. Disease resistant. Dark. 
green, Very productive. 
Colorado—A very attractive vari- 
ety, good for market gardens and 
for shipping. Fruit very dark green, 
cylindrical, round with small seed 
pocket. Unusually free from strip- 
ing at blossom end. 
Davis Perfect—Midseason. 9 to 10- 
in. long, tapered both ends, good 
color. 

BEAN, Plentiful 
Early Fortune—Rich, dark green 
fruits with firm, crisp, pure white 
flesh. Grows to 9 by 2'-in. Ships 
well, and is highly resistant to 
disease. 
Improved White Spine or Arling- 
ton—Fruits 8 to 9-in. long. An old 
standard early sort. 
National Pickling—Straight, sym- 
metrical fruits, 6-in. long. Superb 
for small pickles, very uniform. 50 
days. 
Straight Eight, w.s.—Unsurpassed 
as slicing cucumber. All-America 
Selection. 2'-lb. fruits, rounded at 
ends, medium green. 68 days. 
DILL 
Long Island Mammoth—Used for 
flavoring. Flat seeds have strong, 
bitter flavor. Pkt. 10c. 
20 

EGGPLANT 
Black Beauty—Large, egg-shaped, 
smooth, very dark purple fruits. 
Keep well. Plant bears 4 to 5 
fruits. Early. 80 days. Pkt. 10c. 
New Hampshire Hybrid—All- 
America Silver Medal 1939. The 
dark purple fruits are of the high- 
est quality. Pkt. 10c. 
ENDIVE 
Deep Heart Fringed—All-America 
Silver Medal, 1940. An entirely 
new type of endive. Leaf margins 
deeply .cut and curled. Instead of 
lying flat on the ground, outer 
leaves turn upward, making this 
variety less susceptible to bottom 
rot than most others. Well-filled 
hearts, closely packed with abund- 
ance of fine leaves, blanch to 
clear creamy yellow. Suitable for 
home and market garden. 
Large Green Curled (Pink Ribbed) 
—Outer leaves bright green, mid- 
ribs tinged with rose, Center 
blanches readily, making attrac- 
tive salad. 95 days. ° 
KALE 
Dwarf Green Curled—Hardy, large 
and very attractive bright, deep 
green. 100 days. 
KOHLRABI 
White Vienna Early —8 to 10-in. 
leaves on slender stems. Bulbs 2 
to 3-in., globular, light green. Crisp, 
tender, clear white flesh. 55 to 60 
days. Pkt. 10c. 
LEEK 
Large American Flag—An early, 
popular variety, with thick, long 
white stems. Leaves large and 
drooping, medium green. Pkt. 10c. 
LETTUCE 
Heading or Cabbage 
Big Boston—Popular for cold frame 
forcing and outside culture. Medi- 
um, compact heads with creamy 
yellow heart. Smooth, glossy 
leaves, edges wavy, and slightly 
tinged with reddish brown. 75 days. 
Hanson—Hardy and sure heading. 
Heads large, globular, compact, 
tender and sweet. Good for mid- 
summer planting. 
Iceberg—Late, large variety. Com- 
pact heads, crumpled, crisp and 
sweet. Leaves light green, slightly 
brown on edges. 
New York No. 12—The standard 
crisp-head lettuce. Large globular 
shaped head, dark green with 
blanched, silvery white heart, Suc- 
cessfully grown outdoors spring, 
summer and fall. 
Loose Leaved Varieties 
Grand Rapids—Erect, compact, 
plants. Light green, broad heavily 
fringed. For forcing or early plant- 
ing outside. 43 days. 
Prize Head—Early non-heading 
sort. Medium sized plants, crisp 
and tender. Color light brown on a 
medium green base. Leaves frilled 
at edges, and crumpled. 47 days. 
Black Seeded Simpson—Light 
green, frilled and crumpled. 
Simpson’s Early Curled—Also 
called Early Curled Silesia. Early, 
hardy and dependable. Non-head- 
ing. Leaves large frilled crumpled, 
light green; form a compact bunch 
at center. 45 days. 
Chicken—Produces largest amount 
of leaves of any lettuce. Fast- 
growing. For poultry and rabbit 
feeding. 
Cos or Romaine 
White Paris or Trianon—Medium 
large self-folding, dark green loaf 
shaped heads. Greenish-white, well 
blanched interior. 66 days. 
SEVEN POINTS jor Vegetable Growers 
1 Soil Preparation 
Rich, sandy loam is best adapted to gardening. Stiff 
clay must be broken up and given plenty of fibrous 
material. Sandy soil should have fertilizing. 
Work soil deeply, making the top three or four inches 
fine and loose. Thorough hoeing or raking before 
planting keeps down weeds. Do not work wet clay. 
If subsoil is stiff clay, special drainage is needed. 
Tile placed three feet below surface and not more 
than eighteen feet apart will greatly improve results. 
2 Planting 
For planting in open ground, choose a time when the 
soil is moist but not wet. Seed should be covered 
immediately after planting so as to retain moisture. 
Press down fine earth firmly around seeds so as to 
bring particles into close contact with the seed. 
Planting depths are suggested by the table on page 
24. However, it should be noted that the best depth 
varies with the condition of the soil, so that each 
gardener's own practical experience must be con- 
sidered. 
In order that the tender stems of seedlings can push 
through the ground easily, soil must be soft and loose. 
3 Cultivating 
The importance of cultivating cannot be over-empha- 
sized. Proper cultivation pays ample dividends. 
Stirring the surface soil during the period of growth 
not only kills weeds but encourages healthy root 
development. It also allows air to enter, and helps 
conserve moisture. 
As plants grow, cultivation should become more shal- 
low to avoid injury to roots. 
A dust mulch of fine soil on the surface helps hold 
the moisture in the soil below—but a crust over the . 
soil is harmful and should be broken up. 
4 Watering 
While roots may be watered at any time, plants 
should be watered early morning or evening. Remem- 
ber that one good soaking is better than many light 
sprinklings. 
5 Time of Planting 
Seasonal variations make it difficult to specify plant- 
ing by date. In using planting "calendars" it is well 
to make allowances for "late" or “early” seasons. 
When heavy frosts are over, plant early peas, onion 
sets and seed, kale, lettuce and spinach. 
When frosts are about over plant radishes, parsnips, 
carrots, beets, late peas and early sweet corn, and 
set out cabbage, and cauliflower plants. 
When all frosts are over, plant string beans and late 
sweet corn, and set out early tomato plants from the 
indoor boxes. 
When soil is quite warm, plant cucumbers, melons. 
squashes, lima beans and set out the rest of the 
plants. / 
Trees, shrubs, vines and dormant roses should be set 
out as early as conditions will permit, before the leaf 
buds open. ; 
Gladiolus bulbs and Dahlias should not be planted 
until the soil is quite warm. © 
6 Crop Succession 
lt is preferable not to have a second planting of any 
one crop follow the first on the same soil. Where 
vegetables mature early, they should be followed by 
later kinds. For example, follow early carrots by late 
beans or corn—or follow radishes with cabbage or 
tomatoes. f 
7 Garden Sanitation 
Keeping the garden healthy is not only a matter of 
spraying and dusting. Of course, reliable and prop- 
erly selected insecticides should be used whenever 
and wherever there is any evidence of insect pests. A 
quick, early attack on insects and plant diseases is 
simply good gardening sense. an 
But garden sanitation also calls for keeping the gar- 
den clean. In fall, be sure to remove ane burn all 
rubbish, thus destroying many insect eggs that would 
develop the following spring. 
Also combat plant diseases, wherever possible, by 
using the new disease-resistant strains of flowers and 
vegetables. ~ * 
