A better lawn for your home? 
We can help you! 
We know lawns! And we 
know this territory! ASK US 
No lawn mixture can meet the needs 
of every territory — or all the varying 
requirements in the same vicinity. 
To be sure of having a thick, lasting 
turf, you must sow a mixture of true 
turf grasses properly suited to your 
own soil and climatic conditions. 
To be sure of getting. such a mix- 
ture, buy your seed from a seedsman 
right here in your own territory. 
For years it has been our business 
to provide exactly the right kind of 
seed for each particular lawn condi- 
tion. : 
You can depend on us for the great- 
est bargain in lawn seed — the most 
grass of the best type per dollar of 
cost. 
Remember, too, that we are always 
glad to help solve any lawn troubles 
you may have. Our long experience 
has taught us the answers to the par- 
ticular problems encountered in this 
locality. 

LAWN FACTS every home owner should know 
Before you make your lawn, consider your 
soil. A heavy soil, predominantly clay, can be 
lightened by the addition of sand and humus. 
A light soil can be improved with a top dress- 
ing of heavier soil, or by adding humus in the 
form of peat moss, or commercial humus. 
Top dressing is always valuable in helping 
new seedlings and encouraging the spread of 
older grass, while leveling the lawn surface as 
well. Use a bushel of good, rich, weed-free soil 
to 100 square feet, with more in the low spots. 
Peat moss is a valuable addition to light or 
heavy soils. It is an effective remedy for exces- 
sive dissipation of moisture, keeping the soil 
particles loose and friable. Either spade it into 
the soil or apply as a top dressing, at least half 
an inch deep. With a very heavy clay soil, use 
one inch or more. 
2 
Feed the soil before you seed, so that the 
26 
planting to follow will not lack food for its all- 
important early growth. Feeding. restores nitro- 
gen, phosphorus, potash, etc., after plant growth 
has deprived the soil of these vital elements. 
Mix lawn food with top dressing or distribute it 
evenly over the top dressing with a fertilizer 
spreader. Don't use fresh manure; it usually 
contains weed seeds. We can supply you with 
lawn foods of the correct value for local and 
individual requirements. 
Consider tree feeding as part of your lawn- 
building campaign. If trees are well fed, they 
will not compete with grass for the nourishment 
from the soil they share. Ask us about methods, 
foods and equipment for fertilizing your trees 
effectively. 
3 
Seeding may be done by hand, or with a 
spreader. To decrease the possibility of leaving 
bare spaces, distribution should be made in two 
directions, one at right angles to the other. 
Good results are often secured with one 
pound of seed to each 200 square feet of lawn. 
However, this is the minimum amount. You will 
get a better lawn, and more quickly by sowing 
a pound to each 100 square feet. 
Do not skimp on seed, either in quality or 
distribution, for seed is the cheapest part of your 
lawn-making operation. Ample seeding insures 
the dense turf necessary during the early life 
of the lawn for checking the introduction and 
development of weeds. Beat the weeds with 
lots of seeds. 
4 
Seed early in the season. Grass seed is not 
damaged by freezing temperature or any other 
weather condition except standing water. Long 
before you begin work on your flower garden, 
you can start your lawn, for seedlings need a 
chance to grow sturdy before weeds germinate. 
While the frost is still in the ground, the checked 
or honeycombed condition of the soil provides 
ideal shelter for the seed without raking in. 
Where possible, sowing over light spring snow 
simplifies even distribution. 
Planting necessarily delayed even until mid- 
summer is successful, however, if diligently 
followed by ample watering and weeding. But 
grass in the shade of trees thrives well all 
through the season only when sown early 
enough to get a good start before the foliage 
has a chance to deprive it of food and light. 
Even though repeated seeding should be re- 
quired, persistence here is sure to bring success. 
5 
Seed on a calm day or early in the morning, 
when the seed will fall where you want it. If 
the frost is out of the ground, rake the seed 
into the soil lightly, or brush it in by dragging 
some light, flexible object, as a sack. Be sure 
you have the seed covered with one-eighth of 
an inch of fine soil or new top dressing. Now 
you are ready to roll lightly to bring soil par- 
ticles into contact with the seed. 
6 
Rolling may be properly employed for pressing 
the soil firmly around new seed and around 
grass roots disturbed by winter. Use a light 
water-ballast roller, empty to one-third full. Soil 
becomes compacted if rolled too often—or when 
wet and sticky. For leveling a lawn, use top 
dressing—never a roller. 
7 
Moisture. Every lawn has its special character- 
istics with respect to the amount of water re- . 
quired and the measures called for in retaining 
moisture. Note the foregoing recommendations 
concerning the use of peat moss. 
To determine how much water you must use, 
look for the answer down beneath the surface. 
Cut a small plug of soil, two or three inches 
deep. If only the upper inch is dry, normal 
watering is sufficient. But if the soil looks dry 
very much below that, use plenty of water for 
positive surface and subsoil penetration. 
Ample watering is much better than mere 
“sprinkling” on almost any type of soil. It en- 
courages deep roots well below the drier upper 
soil of hot summer days. High ground, espe- 
cially i¢ unshaded, will need more water than 
lower spots with bordering trees. 
Mow new grass only after it has reached a 
growth between two and three inches. Do not 
delay until it topples. Set the mower to cut at 
about two inches. Too close cutting of new or 
old grass, unless done very frequently, may 
cause injury by exposure to the sunlight after 
the shade of a denser growth. Mowed cuttings 
help the lawn if not too deep. But don't leave 
fallen leaves; they are worthless as fertilizer 
until fully decayed. And grass from any well- 
selected seed needs no winter protection. 
